The bike though was not going as well as it had been, I was convinced that the mechanics I was using the day before had done a hatchet job on the bike. Ruined my noble steed by canabilizing the engine. It seemed as if all the power had been just sucked out of the engine.
I slowly climbed the mountain road cursing the mechanics every time I twisted the throttle and got nothing in return. Twice I almost turned back after a couple of turns but knowing that Tony and Will would be leaving Keylong (The last town for 365k before Leh) with or without me the next day I pressed on. At one particularly muddy and steep corner the bike ground to a halt and I was turning around to head back and knock 4 kinds of shite out of the mechanic when a group of Indians started shouting at me. I stopped and tried to explain that it was not that I could not drive but that my bike was destroyed by mechanics but they did not understand and one of the group came down and insisted on having a go at taking the turn. He made it up the steep mud to cheers and chants of his friends with the odd jeer at me for not being able to do it. I tried to explain that it was not that I could not do it but that the bike was not up to scratch but it fell on deaf ears filled with self pride, there is video footage on their camera of them all cheering around me and me shouting in fury that “YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND!!!!! It was the mechanics!!!!!” but it made no impression on them and they were just in a state of hyper excitement. They tried to get me to dance with them but I was in no mood but had to promise if we passed each other at another chai shop I would do so so they let me go.
The bike kept creeping up the mountain though and at the next stop at Rotang pass (the first pass, about 4500m) I stopped f or a chai and give the bike a rest. Sitting enjoying the view I heard a screech of tires and cheers as I turned the same group of Indians where pouring out of their jeep and coming towards me with purpose.
“You dance with us!”
“Ah.. no lads, am tired and the altitude......”
“You dance with us!, you said you would so you have too!”
I tried to object but they had none of it so I got up and they put on some slamming Indian techno. So somewhere in India there is video footage of me raving my socks off for about 10 minutes, shouting and dancing like mad man with these boys, giving it socks, gyrating, kicking the air and jumping around as if in some fit. I have to say it did lighten my mood considerably.
Getting over the Rotang Pass was a releif as at the top is where a lot of tourists go to stand on the rapidly diminishing glaciers or sit in deck chairs laid out for them, some touts even have snow mobiles to take people up the last patch of ice there. A sad sight I thought and kept going. After the pass though there are no more day tourists, its only for the serious ones now and as I free wheel down the other side I'm alone for the first time.
Snaking down the mountain into an vast valley and following the road on and on I come to my first river. A torrent it seemed cutting across the road. It was about 18 inches deep (up to my exhaust) and about 10 foot wide. I stalled for about 10 minutes watching the river and then just went for it throttling through it. Coming out the other side with only a damp shoe to show for it, I was elated. I passed the first challenge.
About 5k before Keylong I stopping at the last petrol station for 365k to fill my tank and extra container I needed for to make the journey to Leh.
Rolling into Keylong to find Tony on the side of the road and with whoops and great smiles we headed for dinner and where Will met us also.
1 comment:
Sounds hardcore but would have been more impressed if you had cycled it! har har!
Unbelievable read, and fantastic photos, so amazing to be able to read and see some of your travels!
Glad you got to rave the the raving mad Indians!
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