Been in the ashram for the last 3 days and I have had some highs and some lows.
It is a fine place, really clean and everybody is very friendly but it is really too much like a hospital and there are a lot of sick people, the general vibe also reminds me too much of the hospis that Pop's shook of of his mortal coil. Allot of the sickies re cancer patients and the place begins to come in on me a bit.
Simone and I are the only whites here and it is amazing their reactions to us. The Indians have no idea of personal space so they just come up to you and stare, the expressions on theirs face are so that I have to check if I have a second head.
Today I'm really feeling claustrophobic so I head for a walk, passing huge bushels of wild ganja as I stroll along the road really feeling like I need to get away.
I head back to the place and just sit in the yoga area and a family comes up to me, I pose with them for a photo and we sign to each other, the Indian are really such a sweet people.
As the Sheeshaw was the national pastime in Egypt, conversation is the national pastime here. "Where do you come from?", "what do you do?", "are you married?' are the usual openers.
When the family moves on I head across the campus and I bump into one of the teachers and he invite me to his office for some conversation. He has a dairy full of conversational phrases that you can tell he has painstakingly collected over the past years.
We pass the time talking only stopping for him to flip through his dairy.
"What do you want to be?"
"How many in you family?"
"Give my regards to your mother"
His name is Visnod and we talk for a good while, laughing and learning.
After this its back to the room feeling much better about myself and the place and get to relaxing in.
Monday, April 30, 2007
Hardiwar
Head into Hardiwar for a couple of hours, Simone whom has been traveling India for 5 months now is experience on the local bus and off we go. The local bus is real India and is an experience. The rules of the road is that the largest has right of way and the driving is just frantic.
Hardiwar is a holy city and is a frenzy of life and noise.
We wander around the town taking it in and then to the banks of Mother Ganga for the evening ritual. The light is really remarkable here. The dust in the air gives everything a real soft dreamy effect filtering the light into soft pinks and reds.
There are holy men everywhere. As I was crossing the river this one holy man was meandering past and our eyes just happened to meet. I have never been greeted with such softness, grace and gentle joy before and for a moment the world disappears and then it is past.
While on the banks I put my feet into the water for he first time. It is cool and refreshing. The water feels like the softest of animals brushing against me as a cat does. It is alive and of far greater wisdom the I could ever imagine.
Hardiwar is a holy city and is a frenzy of life and noise.
We wander around the town taking it in and then to the banks of Mother Ganga for the evening ritual. The light is really remarkable here. The dust in the air gives everything a real soft dreamy effect filtering the light into soft pinks and reds.
There are holy men everywhere. As I was crossing the river this one holy man was meandering past and our eyes just happened to meet. I have never been greeted with such softness, grace and gentle joy before and for a moment the world disappears and then it is past.
While on the banks I put my feet into the water for he first time. It is cool and refreshing. The water feels like the softest of animals brushing against me as a cat does. It is alive and of far greater wisdom the I could ever imagine.
Sunday, April 29, 2007
India Day 3
6.55 train to Hadiwar. The train system here is great, really easy to navigate at the service is bang on time. There is even refreshments served.
I have the window seat so i can take in the country as we pass. The country is very fertile and flat, perfect for all the little farms that seem to go on for ever. At every level crossing there are hundreds of people at the gates in every type of transport ever imaginable waiting at the gates.
Beside me is a very nice lady called Veena that is of Indian origin but when I ask which part of India I'm informed California where she is retired and her husband runs the family Subway sandwich shop and next to her Simone and Swiss girl traveling for the last 5 months. Instantly Veena adopts us and before we know it we have all decided to go to a ashram outside Hadiwar.
The trip form the train station is a perilous one as the traffic even out in the sticks is manic but the rickshaw is skillfully handled and we whizz past buses, trucks, cows, motorcycles with full families on them with lots of close calls but no actual collisions. All along the side of the road is full of bushes of wild hemp and the air is full of the smell.
The ashram is a big complex that is really more of a hospital but I decide what the hell and give it a go as it is a lovely area and very clean with lush gardens and the room is bigger then some apartments I have lived in.
I have the window seat so i can take in the country as we pass. The country is very fertile and flat, perfect for all the little farms that seem to go on for ever. At every level crossing there are hundreds of people at the gates in every type of transport ever imaginable waiting at the gates.
Beside me is a very nice lady called Veena that is of Indian origin but when I ask which part of India I'm informed California where she is retired and her husband runs the family Subway sandwich shop and next to her Simone and Swiss girl traveling for the last 5 months. Instantly Veena adopts us and before we know it we have all decided to go to a ashram outside Hadiwar.
The trip form the train station is a perilous one as the traffic even out in the sticks is manic but the rickshaw is skillfully handled and we whizz past buses, trucks, cows, motorcycles with full families on them with lots of close calls but no actual collisions. All along the side of the road is full of bushes of wild hemp and the air is full of the smell.
The ashram is a big complex that is really more of a hospital but I decide what the hell and give it a go as it is a lovely area and very clean with lush gardens and the room is bigger then some apartments I have lived in.
Holy Cow!
John come over to me at 8.30 and off we go to train station where I pick up a ticket for next day to Hadiwar, no three day wait, no 3000 rs.
I book in the Shelton the the real Main Bazaar that is not full after all and even though it is one of the more expensive hotels in Pahagranj is still only half price of place I stayed last night.
I say my goodbyes to John, refusing a tip he gives me a big hug and I know I have a real friend in Delhi.
After dropping bag I head out to take in the streets.
How to describe Delhi! First of all the thing that hits you is just the incredible amount of people and noise, then there is the smell that is not all that unpleasant, it is a mix of spice and cow shite but in some places urine which is not ever nice. I think it is impossible to exaggerate about this place as it really is just fantastic! My senses are totally over loaded. It is very difficult to write about because just taking a few steps would fill a book.
These narrow streets filled with auto rickshaws whizzing about, people milling to and fro and everywhere people calling after you and then just when you think you have seen it all I turn a corner to come face to face with an elephant. The is barley enough room in these streets to get a car down but an elephant! There are people people driving it. They do not seem to be doing it for money it just as if they have come into town for a spot of shopping.
There are beggars everywhere with all different kinds of ailments, withered legs being the most common. Young boys dragging themselves along the ground banging their tin cups.
As the heat reaches the mid 40s there is nothing I can do but head back to hotel and sweat. The heat is nothing like I have ever felt before, everything is roasting. When I take my water out of my bag its like drinking milky tea and my key feels like it is burning my hand when I open the door.
The food is great though but as I munch on a bit of curry in a cafe and watch the passing chaos i really cant wait to get out of this claustrophobic scene.
I book in the Shelton the the real Main Bazaar that is not full after all and even though it is one of the more expensive hotels in Pahagranj is still only half price of place I stayed last night.
I say my goodbyes to John, refusing a tip he gives me a big hug and I know I have a real friend in Delhi.
After dropping bag I head out to take in the streets.
How to describe Delhi! First of all the thing that hits you is just the incredible amount of people and noise, then there is the smell that is not all that unpleasant, it is a mix of spice and cow shite but in some places urine which is not ever nice. I think it is impossible to exaggerate about this place as it really is just fantastic! My senses are totally over loaded. It is very difficult to write about because just taking a few steps would fill a book.
These narrow streets filled with auto rickshaws whizzing about, people milling to and fro and everywhere people calling after you and then just when you think you have seen it all I turn a corner to come face to face with an elephant. The is barley enough room in these streets to get a car down but an elephant! There are people people driving it. They do not seem to be doing it for money it just as if they have come into town for a spot of shopping.
There are beggars everywhere with all different kinds of ailments, withered legs being the most common. Young boys dragging themselves along the ground banging their tin cups.
As the heat reaches the mid 40s there is nothing I can do but head back to hotel and sweat. The heat is nothing like I have ever felt before, everything is roasting. When I take my water out of my bag its like drinking milky tea and my key feels like it is burning my hand when I open the door.
The food is great though but as I munch on a bit of curry in a cafe and watch the passing chaos i really cant wait to get out of this claustrophobic scene.
Delhi Delhi Delhi
To cut a long story short I made it there alive. The flight was really easy, Etihad are prob the best airline I have ever flown with and the flight was trip was over in just 6 hours. As I was flying into Delhi my stomach was doing flips and I was perched on the edge of my seat with my nose stuck to the window and beads of sweat forming on my brow. The stewardess was eyeing me nervously. As we land the pilot informs us that it is a sunny 43 degrees in New Delhi and I have to draw on all my breathing exorcises to calm myself. Leaving customs I stop again and really have to focus and step out expecting to be torn apart by touters and thief's but the place is the picture of tranquility. I go by advice and get a government taxi and as I wait, tense waiting for throngs of people to come running at me any minute but all that come is my taxi and off we go. It is all going too easy and even though we are casually cruising through the Delhi burbs with wild hemp growing all along the road and people gently selling their wares I am still on the edge of my saet waiting for it all to hit. My destination is Pahagranj which is the backpacker center of town and is right next to train station, a famous place known by everyone, everyone accept my driver it would seem and he has to stop at "Tourist Office" to ask directions. So before I know whats happening I'm seating in a tourist office with a smiling man in front of me and no idea where I am. As far as I'm told the Main Bazaar of Pahagranj is just around the corner but I have to book hotel first with him. After calling a few hotels from my guide book that are all full the penny begins to drop and I remember the warning in my book of shady travel agents and I realise I have been hit with scams 1, 2 and 3 already. The Big scam is that they ring hotel but they really ring people in his little cartel that are in on the plot to get me to go to a hotel of their choosing and pay stupid money, one of them even imitates the train station and tells me there are no trains for 3 days. They even take it to the point that they drive me around what they tell me is Main Bazaar and bring into all the hotels there where I'm told that they are all full, So after a couple of hours of this and with hunger and exhaustion from the over night flight with no sleep I eventually give in and book room for one night and luckily it is a clean room. After checking in and dropping off bag I head straight the door with the conviction that I'm going to get to the bottom of this and find out what is going on and where I am. I discover that I'm actually about 3Km from the real Main Bazaar and I decide to hope in Rickshaw and go take alook so I can get my bearings. The tour office sends a young guy with me to guide me and give the run around I suppose. I decide the train station is a good land mark that would be hard for them to fake and firmly put my focus on getting there. I request John to tell driver to go there and off we go. He trys to direct to me here and there saying " why not go here or there" but I just keep repeating "train station, train station, train station". After passing the same block for the third time I start getting a little angry and "train station" is turning into "just bring to the TRAIN STATION!!!!!!!" and John is begging to look a little scared and out of his depth with his client but he trys to hang in there till I really begin to loose it and he decides to try and pawn me off on another tourist office but I hold firm and and my directions are begging to get violent and eventually a very scared john leads rickshaw to an area I have not seen before and then looms the sign for New Delhi Train Station and I loosen my grip little on john's throat. Into the station with purpose and a good feeling at last.After finding my way I can eventually take in Delhi a bit and this city is just chaos, the noise and people everywhere in just frantic.Poor John is still following me. He is worn out and looks very worried as he rubs his wounds, I assure him that I will not let his boss know that he actually took me to station after all and that his secret is safe with me and he lightens up a bit. I offer to bring him for dinner to compensate for almost throttling him and we head down the real Main Bazaar that is a maze of streets, with all little stalls and people milling around. Cows wonder around completely unfazed. After a lovely dinner on a roof top where John and I chat and get to know each other over the din that is constantly coming from the street below its back to the hotel and after over 30 hours of no sleep its blackness.
Saturday, April 21, 2007
Last Day Cairo
Spent last night again just wandering the streets and hanging out in cafes chatting with the locals, it really is a fascinating city. The streets brim with life.
Everywhere street sellers hawking their wares. Between all the buildings narrow allies billowing delicious smelling smoke barely wide enough to fit down are swarming with people eating at the stalls.
The Street congested with traffic and people shouting and playing around in the street. Men all walking around arm in arm and from every cafe acrid smoke waving into the street.
My senses get over stimulated and I have to sit down and add to the acrid air with a sheesha all my own and bury myself in Naguib Mahfouz's "Children of the Alley".
Everywhere street sellers hawking their wares. Between all the buildings narrow allies billowing delicious smelling smoke barely wide enough to fit down are swarming with people eating at the stalls.
The Street congested with traffic and people shouting and playing around in the street. Men all walking around arm in arm and from every cafe acrid smoke waving into the street.
My senses get over stimulated and I have to sit down and add to the acrid air with a sheesha all my own and bury myself in Naguib Mahfouz's "Children of the Alley".
Back in Cairo Day #3
Spend the day in coffee shops drinking yansun finishing off the "The Third Police Man" by Flann O'Brian. Paul you were right it really is a remarkable book. I have ear marked pages and underlined passages that I think I'll be returning to for years to come and when I finish the last page I almost turn right back to the first and start again but I decide to save it for another time.
Only one more day till I'm out of here and on my way to India, the excitement fills me with feeling of joy, panic and nausea.
Only one more day till I'm out of here and on my way to India, the excitement fills me with feeling of joy, panic and nausea.
Back in Cairo Day #2
Feeling a bit better today and I'm amazed at how I managed to get back to Cairo in one piece with all my belongings neatly packed and nothing missing. I really have no idea how I managed it.
First thing I rush to the India consulate to be there when they open the doors praying they take kindly to me and the fantastic lady says to come back at 1pm. Still nervous I move around Cairo counting the hours till 1pm. At 12.40 I walk in the door and with a big smile the fantastic lady behind the glass hands me back my passport with a wonderful valid visa for India. With a spin on my heel and almost jumping through the glass I thanked her repeatedly and ran out of the building just in case they change their mind. I cant believe I'm actually going to go to India at last.
First thing I rush to the India consulate to be there when they open the doors praying they take kindly to me and the fantastic lady says to come back at 1pm. Still nervous I move around Cairo counting the hours till 1pm. At 12.40 I walk in the door and with a big smile the fantastic lady behind the glass hands me back my passport with a wonderful valid visa for India. With a spin on my heel and almost jumping through the glass I thanked her repeatedly and ran out of the building just in case they change their mind. I cant believe I'm actually going to go to India at last.
Last Day Moon Beach
A dull windy day with an atmosphere like lead leaves nothing to do but sit around. Luckly their is a great Colombo on TV and I stay in bed watch Dick Van Dyke tie himself up in his tales and walk right in the Colombo's skilled, fumbling laid traps.
It is Anna's birthday tonight so after dinner I hit the bar to join the celebrations. I prop up the bar and do my Irish reputation proud and get absolutely hammered. My last memory is downing a shot the bartender gave me telling me it was "cough syrup", kicking over a table and blackness.
I wake up the next morning to Lez calling me through my open hotel door telling me my taxi to Cairo has been waiting 3 hours. Still absolutely hammered I manage to get myself up and settle all my bills have a bit of breakfast and fall into the taxi requesting Anna sternly to "please kick the bartender in the nuts for me" and then a deep coma only reawakening when we get back into Cairo and the non stop choir of beeping horns and the drone of traffic and industry. I manage to crawl to the Indian consulate after dragging my aching body what feels like all of Cairo trying to find the place again (It is actually just straight up from the hotel I find on way back) only to find that I'm too late to give them my passport for that day and have to come back to in morning in the hope that they can do this bit of processing that normally takes 24 hours in a morning. Feeling even worse I crawl back to the hotel cursing everybody and everything, all I can do is try to hide in my room from the pain.
It is Anna's birthday tonight so after dinner I hit the bar to join the celebrations. I prop up the bar and do my Irish reputation proud and get absolutely hammered. My last memory is downing a shot the bartender gave me telling me it was "cough syrup", kicking over a table and blackness.
I wake up the next morning to Lez calling me through my open hotel door telling me my taxi to Cairo has been waiting 3 hours. Still absolutely hammered I manage to get myself up and settle all my bills have a bit of breakfast and fall into the taxi requesting Anna sternly to "please kick the bartender in the nuts for me" and then a deep coma only reawakening when we get back into Cairo and the non stop choir of beeping horns and the drone of traffic and industry. I manage to crawl to the Indian consulate after dragging my aching body what feels like all of Cairo trying to find the place again (It is actually just straight up from the hotel I find on way back) only to find that I'm too late to give them my passport for that day and have to come back to in morning in the hope that they can do this bit of processing that normally takes 24 hours in a morning. Feeling even worse I crawl back to the hotel cursing everybody and everything, all I can do is try to hide in my room from the pain.
Desert Morning
Wake up with the sun, the dreams from the night still very strong in my head and I have to make sure a couple of times that I'm defiantly awake this time. Yoga, breakfast and then chill out for the morning with the boys.
Last night was a very formal affair but this morning there is a very different air. The boys are much more relaxed and we sit around chatting and laughing. Again I'm amazed at the openness and great sense of humour the Bedouin have and we pass the morning too quickly laughing and dancing and discussing Shakira's hips. When we have to go we are all sad to say goodbye.
Into the jeep with our new driver Talab and back over the dunes onto Abu Wadi an ancient dried up river bed that is now an oasis. As we drive into the valley that is the start of the wadi I'm really impressed with the greenery. I have not seen this intensity of green in Egypt before accept around Cairo. The track on either side is filled with paddocks of intense green little plants all about 3 feet tall. I begin to realise that we are passing through one of the many Bedouin plantations I have heard about.
Our guides find our amazement very amusing and asks if we would like any. All the staff bound by the rules have to stay very quiet but I the token guest am not passing up this opportunity and eagerly accept. Talab stops the jeep and calls out to a young guy and over he comes with a beautiful bushel. As we drive the rest of the way Talab is hanging the bushel out the window, singing and waving it around.
Ganja is highly illegal here but he assures me that the police will not dare come into this land as the Bedouin will be ready with guns to defend their favourite vice.
A casual lunch on the ground with tea and flys and we're off down the wadi. An amazing place cutting through ancient sandstone with old cable cars from the manganese mines abandoned years ago by the British criss crossing the top of the wadi 100s of meters above us. It takes us 2 and a half hours to walk through where Talab meets us and back to Moon Beach for dinner and an exhausted early night.
Last night was a very formal affair but this morning there is a very different air. The boys are much more relaxed and we sit around chatting and laughing. Again I'm amazed at the openness and great sense of humour the Bedouin have and we pass the morning too quickly laughing and dancing and discussing Shakira's hips. When we have to go we are all sad to say goodbye.
Into the jeep with our new driver Talab and back over the dunes onto Abu Wadi an ancient dried up river bed that is now an oasis. As we drive into the valley that is the start of the wadi I'm really impressed with the greenery. I have not seen this intensity of green in Egypt before accept around Cairo. The track on either side is filled with paddocks of intense green little plants all about 3 feet tall. I begin to realise that we are passing through one of the many Bedouin plantations I have heard about.
Our guides find our amazement very amusing and asks if we would like any. All the staff bound by the rules have to stay very quiet but I the token guest am not passing up this opportunity and eagerly accept. Talab stops the jeep and calls out to a young guy and over he comes with a beautiful bushel. As we drive the rest of the way Talab is hanging the bushel out the window, singing and waving it around.
Ganja is highly illegal here but he assures me that the police will not dare come into this land as the Bedouin will be ready with guns to defend their favourite vice.
A casual lunch on the ground with tea and flys and we're off down the wadi. An amazing place cutting through ancient sandstone with old cable cars from the manganese mines abandoned years ago by the British criss crossing the top of the wadi 100s of meters above us. It takes us 2 and a half hours to walk through where Talab meets us and back to Moon Beach for dinner and an exhausted early night.
Desert night
When we get to the camp site the sun is beginning to go down and after a short rest we are brought round to where a yoga area has been setup with candles in the rocks all around and we do a yoga session as the sun descends the sky and darkness comes over. At the end of the session without a word we all just sit meditating for an extra 10-15 minutes just taking in the peace of the desert.
Back at the tent we are greeted by Sheikh himself, the king of this part of Sinai.
I have never been in the presents of royalty before but there was no airs or grace with this king. He is a true gentleman and he extended his hand a greeted me with the warmest welcome and we sit together on the ground. After all the greeting and getting comfortable the food was served. A delicious meal of rice, veg stew and a meat stew. After all the walking and yoga I made a bit of pig of myself but I think they consider it a compliment. After dinner the Sheikh and I just sit talking. He really is a true gentleman, with a kind disarming face with a greying mustage that add to his air of nobility. He is curious about my travels and enquires about my plans and compliments me on them. His english is good enough to communicate these simple things. We talk for a good bit, our voices almost down to a mumble as is the way when in the peace and quite in the desert.
After dinner Corina and Lez interview the Sheikh for the article, his son, an impressive man with a great presence and clear serious face translates the more intricate questions and answers and between swoons the girls get their interview done.
The Sheikh answers all the questions with great patients and wisdom. His respect for the land and his people is really touching. He is a working man, he organises safaris for people and his attitude to tourists is fantastic, saying he learns from them about recycling and he feels it is a true privileged to bring them the desert way of life.
After the interview he bids us all a warm farewell and off he goes into the desert night and we all get on with the serious business of the sheeshaa, chatting and singing.
We are doubly privileged as we have another special person with us. He is a very respected man among the Bedouins. He referred to as "The Camel Man". He is considered a sort of shaman. He tells stories of the camels and what he can tell from the tracks. One of the stories he tells is of a village where there is a thief at work and from the tracks (not sure weather they are people tracks or camel tracks) he can tell the name of the man. Firstly though he makes the people of the village promise that they will not punish the man or bring harm to him before he gives them the name so that his power is not used to hurt somebody.
Into the night he tells us stories and legends of the camel. The camel is still so important to the Bedouins and it still is really at the core of their society. After more tea and talk eventually it is time for bed. The Desert is a strange place to sleep. There is a very fine line between dream and reality here and I have a very restless night dreaming waking dreams.
Back at the tent we are greeted by Sheikh himself, the king of this part of Sinai.
I have never been in the presents of royalty before but there was no airs or grace with this king. He is a true gentleman and he extended his hand a greeted me with the warmest welcome and we sit together on the ground. After all the greeting and getting comfortable the food was served. A delicious meal of rice, veg stew and a meat stew. After all the walking and yoga I made a bit of pig of myself but I think they consider it a compliment. After dinner the Sheikh and I just sit talking. He really is a true gentleman, with a kind disarming face with a greying mustage that add to his air of nobility. He is curious about my travels and enquires about my plans and compliments me on them. His english is good enough to communicate these simple things. We talk for a good bit, our voices almost down to a mumble as is the way when in the peace and quite in the desert.
After dinner Corina and Lez interview the Sheikh for the article, his son, an impressive man with a great presence and clear serious face translates the more intricate questions and answers and between swoons the girls get their interview done.
The Sheikh answers all the questions with great patients and wisdom. His respect for the land and his people is really touching. He is a working man, he organises safaris for people and his attitude to tourists is fantastic, saying he learns from them about recycling and he feels it is a true privileged to bring them the desert way of life.
After the interview he bids us all a warm farewell and off he goes into the desert night and we all get on with the serious business of the sheeshaa, chatting and singing.
We are doubly privileged as we have another special person with us. He is a very respected man among the Bedouins. He referred to as "The Camel Man". He is considered a sort of shaman. He tells stories of the camels and what he can tell from the tracks. One of the stories he tells is of a village where there is a thief at work and from the tracks (not sure weather they are people tracks or camel tracks) he can tell the name of the man. Firstly though he makes the people of the village promise that they will not punish the man or bring harm to him before he gives them the name so that his power is not used to hurt somebody.
Into the night he tells us stories and legends of the camel. The camel is still so important to the Bedouins and it still is really at the core of their society. After more tea and talk eventually it is time for bed. The Desert is a strange place to sleep. There is a very fine line between dream and reality here and I have a very restless night dreaming waking dreams.
Friday, April 20, 2007
Moon Beach Day #4
Lez whom runs Moon Beach has organized a desert trip, it is a special one because it is their first one and it is for an article the lovely Corina is going to write up and if all goes well it will become a regular thing for the guests at Moon Beach.
I'm the token guest along with Lez, Corina, Anna, Donna the photographer and Lelas the yoga teacher, so I'm also the token boy. I decide to grin and bare this burden worrying only that the estrogen levels in the car may make me go all fruity but I'm assured quietly that this is not the most femme bunch of girls in the jeep so I don't worry too much.
The drive to the desert is again awe inspiring. The landscape is completely different this side of the Sinai compared to the Dahab side. The terrain here changes constantly, all the mountain ranges seem to be made of different stone. Some are black volcanic, some red sandstone laid down millions of years ago by the sea, others a mixture of both, the rock faces are like tree rings and you can see back in time all the different ages. This giving the whole terrain an amazing technicolour rainbow of history and in the open plains great dunes where the wind has collected huge mounds of the finest sand.
Rabiva (our guide) drives up to a peak and with out warning turns down a shear drop and we zoom down the side the jeep sliding around in the sand, I have to admit I was the one that gave the girlest noise of fright as we tore down the slope. After a couple more roller coaster spins and a few worrying moments with sand flying into the air at points where I swore we could not get the jeep through we arrived at a little Bedouin settlement for lunch.
Inside a little building, all sitting on the ground lunch is prepared by the local women, the bread is made on the fire beside us and the usual fair of delicious tomato's, cucumbers, tuna and hummus is laid out and we tuck in with our fresh bread. I do have to say though, it took all my focus to get past the swarming flys but you have no choice and you just have to go with it.
After lunch it was onto Serabit el-Khadem (if you want more info http://www.geographia.com/egypt/sinai/serabit.htm). The steps up to these old turquoise mines almost 8000 years old start where the road seems to just run out. On the way up the mountain there is ancient graffiti on the stones where travels of old carved hieroglyphics into the stone and pictures of the old boats they used. Across the top of this mountain range the landscape is black from old volcanic activity and you really get the feeling your on another planet. A quick look at these ancient mine, hand worked first nearly 8000 years ago.
A look around the old Hathor temple, the energy from this old place really has a peculiar effect on me, I became very quiet in myself and introspective. All I could do was sit and stare at the ruins. After a while we start our decent down the other side of the mountain range where there are no steps so we have to climb down some pretty shear rock faces. The landscape keeps changing colour. Black manganese litters the landscape but on the rock faces there are bands of blues, greens and reds from all the different minerals in the rock. We have to go around deep canyons and little Wadi's till we wind down through the mountains to the camp where we will be staying for the night.
I'm the token guest along with Lez, Corina, Anna, Donna the photographer and Lelas the yoga teacher, so I'm also the token boy. I decide to grin and bare this burden worrying only that the estrogen levels in the car may make me go all fruity but I'm assured quietly that this is not the most femme bunch of girls in the jeep so I don't worry too much.
The drive to the desert is again awe inspiring. The landscape is completely different this side of the Sinai compared to the Dahab side. The terrain here changes constantly, all the mountain ranges seem to be made of different stone. Some are black volcanic, some red sandstone laid down millions of years ago by the sea, others a mixture of both, the rock faces are like tree rings and you can see back in time all the different ages. This giving the whole terrain an amazing technicolour rainbow of history and in the open plains great dunes where the wind has collected huge mounds of the finest sand.
Rabiva (our guide) drives up to a peak and with out warning turns down a shear drop and we zoom down the side the jeep sliding around in the sand, I have to admit I was the one that gave the girlest noise of fright as we tore down the slope. After a couple more roller coaster spins and a few worrying moments with sand flying into the air at points where I swore we could not get the jeep through we arrived at a little Bedouin settlement for lunch.
Inside a little building, all sitting on the ground lunch is prepared by the local women, the bread is made on the fire beside us and the usual fair of delicious tomato's, cucumbers, tuna and hummus is laid out and we tuck in with our fresh bread. I do have to say though, it took all my focus to get past the swarming flys but you have no choice and you just have to go with it.
After lunch it was onto Serabit el-Khadem (if you want more info http://www.geographia.com/egypt/sinai/serabit.htm). The steps up to these old turquoise mines almost 8000 years old start where the road seems to just run out. On the way up the mountain there is ancient graffiti on the stones where travels of old carved hieroglyphics into the stone and pictures of the old boats they used. Across the top of this mountain range the landscape is black from old volcanic activity and you really get the feeling your on another planet. A quick look at these ancient mine, hand worked first nearly 8000 years ago.
A look around the old Hathor temple, the energy from this old place really has a peculiar effect on me, I became very quiet in myself and introspective. All I could do was sit and stare at the ruins. After a while we start our decent down the other side of the mountain range where there are no steps so we have to climb down some pretty shear rock faces. The landscape keeps changing colour. Black manganese litters the landscape but on the rock faces there are bands of blues, greens and reds from all the different minerals in the rock. We have to go around deep canyons and little Wadi's till we wind down through the mountains to the camp where we will be staying for the night.
Moon Beach Day #3
Ah what can I say....... spent the day windsurfing, which meant I spent allot of time in the water or just standing on the board going nowhere because I could not get the wind into the sale and at one stage I had to be rescued due to drifting too far out but lucky the rescuer was very attractive.
By evening I had it worked out and could gybe my way back and forth across the lagoon with almost the grace of a ballerina with 3 left feet. Sun stroked and dehydrated I had to cry off evening yoga and was in bed by 8.30 that night but it was worth it.
By evening I had it worked out and could gybe my way back and forth across the lagoon with almost the grace of a ballerina with 3 left feet. Sun stroked and dehydrated I had to cry off evening yoga and was in bed by 8.30 that night but it was worth it.
Moon Beach Day #2
After a vigorous yoga session and breakfast I head to the beach that is all of 10 meters away and settle in for a day of sun, sea, sand and Flann O'Brian. There is no wind so thankfully windsurfing is not on the cards.
About lunch time there is some activity around the center, I'm handed the binoculars and I see these dark shapes arcing along the surface of the lagoon about 200 meters out so we jump straight into the zodiac whizz out to find ourselves in the middle of a pod of about 20 dolphins cruising by slowly, just gliding through the water going about their business. Not paying us much mind they just kept moving but it was great to see them.
After that excitement I was up for a bit of adventure and wake boarding was suggested. I thought "That looks easy, no problem", but all I managed to do was nose dive into the water repeatedly and fill my sinuses with half of the Gulf of Suez. After the 5th time of being slammed into the water and having my arms pulled out of my sockets the lesson was cut short as the dolphins were back and I gratefully jumped back in the zodiac and we sped over to the pod and this time they were a bit more playful and I dived off the boat and free dived down with them, I opened my eyes and 3 of them were swimming around me eyeing me with their pleasant curiosity, I was face to face in full eye contact with a wild dolphin, it was truly amazing!
In a blink of an eye they vanish and come up again a 100 meters away and I hop back in the zodiac, as we whizz round the lagoon the dolphins come up a ride the bow wave, I position my self right out over the bow and spread my arms out so I was flying across the surface only 2 feet above them riding the bow wave, they turned and eyed me we flew together across the lagoon.
Again we stopped and I was back in the water and the dolphin family's were just swimming around me, the whole family babies and all passing with in arms reach and for about 20 minutes of hopping in and out of pedalos swimming around with them, some of them just jumping around us showing off they just moved on and in a blink of an eye again they were down the coast and out of sight. A truly magical experience, it has been a life long dream to swim with wild dolphins and as we head back to shore startled flying fish take flight across the lagoon, I feel like my hearts is soring and is carrying the boat back.
Into evening yoga and the image of the dolphins under the water comes to me so strongly, my mediation is like being under there with them again and when I start the sun salutations my sinuses empty half the Gulf onto my mat (A very advanced yoga practice I'm informed).
About lunch time there is some activity around the center, I'm handed the binoculars and I see these dark shapes arcing along the surface of the lagoon about 200 meters out so we jump straight into the zodiac whizz out to find ourselves in the middle of a pod of about 20 dolphins cruising by slowly, just gliding through the water going about their business. Not paying us much mind they just kept moving but it was great to see them.
After that excitement I was up for a bit of adventure and wake boarding was suggested. I thought "That looks easy, no problem", but all I managed to do was nose dive into the water repeatedly and fill my sinuses with half of the Gulf of Suez. After the 5th time of being slammed into the water and having my arms pulled out of my sockets the lesson was cut short as the dolphins were back and I gratefully jumped back in the zodiac and we sped over to the pod and this time they were a bit more playful and I dived off the boat and free dived down with them, I opened my eyes and 3 of them were swimming around me eyeing me with their pleasant curiosity, I was face to face in full eye contact with a wild dolphin, it was truly amazing!
In a blink of an eye they vanish and come up again a 100 meters away and I hop back in the zodiac, as we whizz round the lagoon the dolphins come up a ride the bow wave, I position my self right out over the bow and spread my arms out so I was flying across the surface only 2 feet above them riding the bow wave, they turned and eyed me we flew together across the lagoon.
Again we stopped and I was back in the water and the dolphin family's were just swimming around me, the whole family babies and all passing with in arms reach and for about 20 minutes of hopping in and out of pedalos swimming around with them, some of them just jumping around us showing off they just moved on and in a blink of an eye again they were down the coast and out of sight. A truly magical experience, it has been a life long dream to swim with wild dolphins and as we head back to shore startled flying fish take flight across the lagoon, I feel like my hearts is soring and is carrying the boat back.
Into evening yoga and the image of the dolphins under the water comes to me so strongly, my mediation is like being under there with them again and when I start the sun salutations my sinuses empty half the Gulf onto my mat (A very advanced yoga practice I'm informed).
Thursday, April 19, 2007
Moon Beach
Ras Sudr is a tiny town of little buildings and old shops that I actually missed because I blinked. Moon beach is another half hour past it. Out of nowhere Moon Beach comes up. The Hotel is on a natural lagoon on the Gulf Suez and it just backs straight onto the desert.
The main building of the hotel is an open building that has lots of little desert birds flying around as it is an oasis to them, this area serving as their resturant also. The rooms are Bedouin style stone huts with all services and are the best I have seen in Egypt.
The main hub is the windsurfing center, a wooden structure with a counter and comfy seats where I meet Lez (She runs the place) to do paper work and get the tour which consists of being informed that the windsurfing center turns it's sign around at night and becomes the bar and there is the sea.
After meeting all the gang its straight into the sea for a splash around. I immediately feel at ease here and as I float around in the lagoon I realise this really was the right place to come and I thank what ever wind it was that blew me here.
After evening yoga where the teacher is teaching the exact style of yoga I'm looking to study in India, dinner and early night as I have a big day planned tomorrow of yoga, sun, sea and sand.
The main building of the hotel is an open building that has lots of little desert birds flying around as it is an oasis to them, this area serving as their resturant also. The rooms are Bedouin style stone huts with all services and are the best I have seen in Egypt.
The main hub is the windsurfing center, a wooden structure with a counter and comfy seats where I meet Lez (She runs the place) to do paper work and get the tour which consists of being informed that the windsurfing center turns it's sign around at night and becomes the bar and there is the sea.
After meeting all the gang its straight into the sea for a splash around. I immediately feel at ease here and as I float around in the lagoon I realise this really was the right place to come and I thank what ever wind it was that blew me here.
After evening yoga where the teacher is teaching the exact style of yoga I'm looking to study in India, dinner and early night as I have a big day planned tomorrow of yoga, sun, sea and sand.
Cairo Day #5
Well it was a torrid affair with the Dahlia and it was over in just 3 days but we'll always have Cairo my dear.
With my visa for India in the works I can now breath easy and I decide what to do for the next week. I am looking down the barrel of another 10 days here in Cairo and as much as I like the city I really think I will die if I don't get out of here fast!!!!!!
I took a chance and booked myself into a yoga retreat called Moon Beach in a place called Ras Sudr about 3 hours drive from Cairo. The place promises sun, sea, sand and yoga. I'll just have to trust and go with it. I do trust the wind and where it takes me, I love the feeling of moving and traveling and I revel in not knowing what will happen next.
With my visa for India in the works I can now breath easy and I decide what to do for the next week. I am looking down the barrel of another 10 days here in Cairo and as much as I like the city I really think I will die if I don't get out of here fast!!!!!!
I took a chance and booked myself into a yoga retreat called Moon Beach in a place called Ras Sudr about 3 hours drive from Cairo. The place promises sun, sea, sand and yoga. I'll just have to trust and go with it. I do trust the wind and where it takes me, I love the feeling of moving and traveling and I revel in not knowing what will happen next.
Cairo Day #4
Decided to treat myself this mornintg to breakfast at the Hilton and I have to say it was really lovely. By Egyptian standards it was bloody pricey but by home prices it was a bargain. For 7e I got to stuff my face with great fruits, cheeses, pastries and all the coffee I could handle.
I hit the sports ground to see John play tennis and unfortunately he has a nightmare of a game and looses 2 sets to love. I try to console him and tell him will get him next time etc but leave more feeling that I ruined his luck.
I then took a lovely walk around the Zamalek part of Cairo, a really beautiful part of town, all along the Nile there are plant shops and cafes with family lunching on the Banks and walk in the parks. All around the area are trees with birds singing in them. After getting a bit lost I negotiate a taxi find myself a taxi so I can sit back with my new dissected girl Dahlia.
I hit the sports ground to see John play tennis and unfortunately he has a nightmare of a game and looses 2 sets to love. I try to console him and tell him will get him next time etc but leave more feeling that I ruined his luck.
I then took a lovely walk around the Zamalek part of Cairo, a really beautiful part of town, all along the Nile there are plant shops and cafes with family lunching on the Banks and walk in the parks. All around the area are trees with birds singing in them. After getting a bit lost I negotiate a taxi find myself a taxi so I can sit back with my new dissected girl Dahlia.
Cairo Day #3
Am settling in nicely to the city and I explore confidently, slipping down the back lanes and sipping tea with the locals watching the football and picking up the lingo.
Today I decided to be a good tourist and go to visit Giza to see the world famous pyramids.
Mohammad my driver picks me up at 9am and we're off.
Where the city ends the desert begins and as we fly along the motorway we can see the pyramids luming behind the blocks of apartments at edge of the city.
At Giza its onto a horse (the first time in 20 years) and we trot off to the see one of the wonders of the world.
Passing the Sphinx that looks out over the city like a guardian never off duty.
The guide and I gallop off on our noble steeds up to the pyramids and I dismount and go and put my hands on the rocks that my forefathers help put there and take in the views. An impressive place it is but I still feel little for it and I get the impression it cares even less about me. I think that is the point of them, again a tribute to man's ego and our ability to care for nothing but our selves. It is not a place that is put there for celebration but to show you their majesty and power.
On to Sakara the oldest of the pyramids were Mohammad guessing I'm not a real tourist bribes the guard at the gate so we dont have to pay the entrance fee and I can see it from the car park witch is all I needed to see. Then on too Memphis where again I can see all the glory of Ramsis from the car park.
I'm more impressed with the land around that we pass. All the old farming technics are still in use and it really is like going back in time- the people working the fields and selling their wares. The land is surprisingly fertile due to the irrigation invented 1000s of years ago, the Nile feeds the land bringing life to the country. Almost all of the produce consumed in Egypt comes from Cairo, grown in the fields fed by the Nile. The whole country runs on this life giver.
Back in the city I head for dinner and I'm sat beside John a fellow Irish man. He is here on a tennis tour trying to get world ranking and we go and hang out for the evening, I introduce him to the sheesha and local teas. Then to bed and "The Black Dahlia" by James Ellroy. Is an amazing book about a notorious murder in LA in the forties told from the perspective of an ex boxer cop.
Today I decided to be a good tourist and go to visit Giza to see the world famous pyramids.
Mohammad my driver picks me up at 9am and we're off.
Where the city ends the desert begins and as we fly along the motorway we can see the pyramids luming behind the blocks of apartments at edge of the city.
At Giza its onto a horse (the first time in 20 years) and we trot off to the see one of the wonders of the world.
Passing the Sphinx that looks out over the city like a guardian never off duty.
The guide and I gallop off on our noble steeds up to the pyramids and I dismount and go and put my hands on the rocks that my forefathers help put there and take in the views. An impressive place it is but I still feel little for it and I get the impression it cares even less about me. I think that is the point of them, again a tribute to man's ego and our ability to care for nothing but our selves. It is not a place that is put there for celebration but to show you their majesty and power.
On to Sakara the oldest of the pyramids were Mohammad guessing I'm not a real tourist bribes the guard at the gate so we dont have to pay the entrance fee and I can see it from the car park witch is all I needed to see. Then on too Memphis where again I can see all the glory of Ramsis from the car park.
I'm more impressed with the land around that we pass. All the old farming technics are still in use and it really is like going back in time- the people working the fields and selling their wares. The land is surprisingly fertile due to the irrigation invented 1000s of years ago, the Nile feeds the land bringing life to the country. Almost all of the produce consumed in Egypt comes from Cairo, grown in the fields fed by the Nile. The whole country runs on this life giver.
Back in the city I head for dinner and I'm sat beside John a fellow Irish man. He is here on a tennis tour trying to get world ranking and we go and hang out for the evening, I introduce him to the sheesha and local teas. Then to bed and "The Black Dahlia" by James Ellroy. Is an amazing book about a notorious murder in LA in the forties told from the perspective of an ex boxer cop.
Monday, April 9, 2007
Cairo day #2
The learning curve arcs on and I learn a few tricks to keep the scammers off my back. I really have had to focus and get my head straight. In Dahab you can just drift along and a smile gets you all you need but here I have really had to sober up to the city, Darwin's theories are in full swing here.
With my new stern persona life here is allot less hassled so I can really enjoy the city.
All then men walk round arm in arm and greet each other with kisses but public displays of affection with women is frowned upon.
I hit the Egyptian museum today- A great big dusty building with artifact filling it's many rooms, an awe inspiring place- whole civilisations ripped from their resting places and assembled for us all to see, so long dead that seem alien.
A real window into the human ego, these people trying to beat death and doing so in a way I'm sure they did not expect, broken, fragmented and glorious but beaten by time. If King Tut only knew, people of all creed and gender looking at his remains and me a Jew- one of the tribe that was once his slaves free and able to lord over him and see his faults, live and breath and do all the things he thought he would be doing forever but will I be remembered in a thousand years? I think not. I learn from his arrogance and feel blessed by the freedom I have.
With my new stern persona life here is allot less hassled so I can really enjoy the city.
All then men walk round arm in arm and greet each other with kisses but public displays of affection with women is frowned upon.
I hit the Egyptian museum today- A great big dusty building with artifact filling it's many rooms, an awe inspiring place- whole civilisations ripped from their resting places and assembled for us all to see, so long dead that seem alien.
A real window into the human ego, these people trying to beat death and doing so in a way I'm sure they did not expect, broken, fragmented and glorious but beaten by time. If King Tut only knew, people of all creed and gender looking at his remains and me a Jew- one of the tribe that was once his slaves free and able to lord over him and see his faults, live and breath and do all the things he thought he would be doing forever but will I be remembered in a thousand years? I think not. I learn from his arrogance and feel blessed by the freedom I have.
Cairo Day time day #1
I got lucky with the location of my hotel, it is right in the center of town and has everything I need on my doorstep.
I venture out into the bright sunshine and bustling street. On nearly every corner there are tea houses so and I found one that is suitably spit on the floor kind of place, everybody lounging around sucking on their Sheeshaas (A national past time in Egypt) and the air is full of acrid apple smelling smoke.
The door ways are the best place to sit as you have the best view of the street and it is not long till I'm joined by an elderly gentleman (I say gentleman as he really was a gentleman of the highest order). He is from the Sudan and is old but ageless with a gentle face, a spotless white kaftan and cane he says he does not need but carries for effect.
We pass a couple of hours talking about Sudan, Sine fain and life in general with a good bit of laughter thrown in. After parting words of wisdom and pleasant wishes I head back into the bedlam.
It does not take long for another friend to find me and I'm whisked to a cafe to sit and talk where I pay way to much for the tea and then he brings to his Uncle's perfume house with promises of curing everything that ales me and a story of Mohamed Ali being a customer there along with Colin Farrell. After about a half hour of talking about oils and being adopted by their family I pay too much for a bottle of stuff that will clear my skin, give me enlightenment and bring world peace.
After I'm guided back to my hotel and another tip is given to the guy that brought me there. Back in the hotel I realise I was taken for a ride but they were so good I do not begrudge them and I get to wipe a bit more green from behind my ears.
I venture out into the bright sunshine and bustling street. On nearly every corner there are tea houses so and I found one that is suitably spit on the floor kind of place, everybody lounging around sucking on their Sheeshaas (A national past time in Egypt) and the air is full of acrid apple smelling smoke.
The door ways are the best place to sit as you have the best view of the street and it is not long till I'm joined by an elderly gentleman (I say gentleman as he really was a gentleman of the highest order). He is from the Sudan and is old but ageless with a gentle face, a spotless white kaftan and cane he says he does not need but carries for effect.
We pass a couple of hours talking about Sudan, Sine fain and life in general with a good bit of laughter thrown in. After parting words of wisdom and pleasant wishes I head back into the bedlam.
It does not take long for another friend to find me and I'm whisked to a cafe to sit and talk where I pay way to much for the tea and then he brings to his Uncle's perfume house with promises of curing everything that ales me and a story of Mohamed Ali being a customer there along with Colin Farrell. After about a half hour of talking about oils and being adopted by their family I pay too much for a bottle of stuff that will clear my skin, give me enlightenment and bring world peace.
After I'm guided back to my hotel and another tip is given to the guy that brought me there. Back in the hotel I realise I was taken for a ride but they were so good I do not begrudge them and I get to wipe a bit more green from behind my ears.
Sunday, April 8, 2007
Gettin to Cairo
I arrive by bus to Cairo from Sharm. Calm to chaos!
The 5 hour bus trip speeding across Egypt, passing places of dark industry and darker imagination. Oil refineries spewing out flames and smoke, the Earth herself bleeding into her air like a speared fish, it's beauty wiped from existence for ever.
luckily I'm sitting next to a gentleman that helps me through all baggage checks and rest stops.
The on bus refreshments flow, served by a constantly smiling steward, the 5 hours pass much faster then I thought and BAM am in Cairo!
I got the bus downtown and hope in a taxi to hotel, the traffic is crazy. The pedestrians and cars mingle seamlessly on the road, the city positively buzzes with life.
The 5 hour bus trip speeding across Egypt, passing places of dark industry and darker imagination. Oil refineries spewing out flames and smoke, the Earth herself bleeding into her air like a speared fish, it's beauty wiped from existence for ever.
luckily I'm sitting next to a gentleman that helps me through all baggage checks and rest stops.
The on bus refreshments flow, served by a constantly smiling steward, the 5 hours pass much faster then I thought and BAM am in Cairo!
I got the bus downtown and hope in a taxi to hotel, the traffic is crazy. The pedestrians and cars mingle seamlessly on the road, the city positively buzzes with life.
Calm to Caos
Am in the heaving metropolis of Cairo and it is amazing to me that just 2 days ago I was chilling with the Bedouins in the dessert.
After Ras Abagalum we headed up to Laguna, an other hour north of Abagalum.
Our hut is made ready at the edge of the lagoon. A green shimmering lagoon with just a spatter of huts along it's shore.
A cafe sits at the elbow of the sand spit. The huts here are positively luxurious compared to Abagalum. V and I are the only westerners for miles around.
I feel the last of any tension drift away as I float in the crystal water.
As the sun descends behind the mountains shafts of blue and red light filters though the peaks.
The stars come out and then the mournful moon rises and dominates the sky.
We sit around a little fire and sip tea.
We sleep outside with the lagoon lapping at our feet.
V's bed is a couple of feet away and I see a little mammal about the size of a mouse scurry along the side of her mattress, I moved slightly and it shot back to its hiding spot. I lie still to see if it comes back and I can take a better look at it. I heard the pitter patter of tiny feet an I see it come towards me and then it lept at me! I jumped out of the bed in fright but it has disappeared. After long consideration and lack of witnesses I put it down to hallucination for the opium a Bedouin gave me and after a nervous while, jumping at every little noise I fall asleep and rise to a golden sunrise, after tea we start our 14k hike back to Dahab and arrive in time for breakfast.
After Ras Abagalum we headed up to Laguna, an other hour north of Abagalum.
Our hut is made ready at the edge of the lagoon. A green shimmering lagoon with just a spatter of huts along it's shore.
A cafe sits at the elbow of the sand spit. The huts here are positively luxurious compared to Abagalum. V and I are the only westerners for miles around.
I feel the last of any tension drift away as I float in the crystal water.
As the sun descends behind the mountains shafts of blue and red light filters though the peaks.
The stars come out and then the mournful moon rises and dominates the sky.
We sit around a little fire and sip tea.
We sleep outside with the lagoon lapping at our feet.
V's bed is a couple of feet away and I see a little mammal about the size of a mouse scurry along the side of her mattress, I moved slightly and it shot back to its hiding spot. I lie still to see if it comes back and I can take a better look at it. I heard the pitter patter of tiny feet an I see it come towards me and then it lept at me! I jumped out of the bed in fright but it has disappeared. After long consideration and lack of witnesses I put it down to hallucination for the opium a Bedouin gave me and after a nervous while, jumping at every little noise I fall asleep and rise to a golden sunrise, after tea we start our 14k hike back to Dahab and arrive in time for breakfast.
Friday, April 6, 2007
Ras Abagalum
In Ras Abagalum writing by the light of the full moon.
Ras Abagalum ................
A nature reserve about 14Km north of Dahab. Boris our dive guide, V and I.
The is nothing here except huts and sea.
To get here we walk along the coast, 4 camels loaded with our dive gear loping along behind us.
Our accommodation is 3 and a half walls made of Pam leaves with a roof the the moon shines though and it provides everything we need.
The Red Sea is only 20 feet away lapping gently against a stony shore.
Bedouin huts (by they way compared to our diggs are palaces) scatter along this natural bit of flat between the sea and the mountains.
Our first dive is at 10.30am and straight away the life is more vibrant then the at Dahab . Completely unspoilt coral gardens and fish that don't have that slightly jaded look about them as the resident fish in Dahab ( no fault of theirs, its just that they have seen every diver in the world go by and are just a bit over it). They go about their business with the joy and enthusiasm that you see in the great cities of the world. This heaving metropolis of fish and coral teaming around with a confidence that you only get when you know you live in a utopia.
After a very good lunch served by the Bedouins and lashing of syrupy tea we go for our second dive of the day and the pace of life under there has not slackened and I come out of the water positively blissed out.
The order of the evening is another surprisingly delicious meal and quiet relaxed talk around the fire with the tea flowing.
Ras Abagalum ................
The peace here is piercing and there is talk from the Bedouins of ganja and opium.
By 7.30 it is time for bed as there is nothing to do but retire.
I go for a moon lit stroll. While sitting meditating by the waters edge, reflecting on the moons reflection a stranger approaches. We great each other, he is a young Bedouin and we communicate by signs, he is very good and communicating by sign and I realise it is because he is deaf. He invites me to his home for tea.
I enter his hut to find his family sitting around the light of a mobile phone sorting some serious business, they do not register my presence to the degree that I wonder if I'm just a figment of his imagination.
From what I can work out he owns these 4 huts around us and his baby is sleeping behind us and I'm not sure but I may have bought 4 camels, a pet cricket provides a techno sound track to the scene.
After determining the same fact for the 4th time with our limited vocabulary he decides to visit his neighbors and just gets up and walks out, for fear of his figment of imagination turning into a unwanted spirit I follow and bid him farewell and I decide to retire, it is about 8.30 after all.
I lay down on my mattress under a camel hair blanket watching the moon though the roof. My mind reels with my thoughts for India while my heart palpitates from all the sugar laden tea.
Ras Abagalum ................
A nature reserve about 14Km north of Dahab. Boris our dive guide, V and I.
The is nothing here except huts and sea.
To get here we walk along the coast, 4 camels loaded with our dive gear loping along behind us.
Our accommodation is 3 and a half walls made of Pam leaves with a roof the the moon shines though and it provides everything we need.
The Red Sea is only 20 feet away lapping gently against a stony shore.
Bedouin huts (by they way compared to our diggs are palaces) scatter along this natural bit of flat between the sea and the mountains.
Our first dive is at 10.30am and straight away the life is more vibrant then the at Dahab . Completely unspoilt coral gardens and fish that don't have that slightly jaded look about them as the resident fish in Dahab ( no fault of theirs, its just that they have seen every diver in the world go by and are just a bit over it). They go about their business with the joy and enthusiasm that you see in the great cities of the world. This heaving metropolis of fish and coral teaming around with a confidence that you only get when you know you live in a utopia.
After a very good lunch served by the Bedouins and lashing of syrupy tea we go for our second dive of the day and the pace of life under there has not slackened and I come out of the water positively blissed out.
The order of the evening is another surprisingly delicious meal and quiet relaxed talk around the fire with the tea flowing.
Ras Abagalum ................
The peace here is piercing and there is talk from the Bedouins of ganja and opium.
By 7.30 it is time for bed as there is nothing to do but retire.
I go for a moon lit stroll. While sitting meditating by the waters edge, reflecting on the moons reflection a stranger approaches. We great each other, he is a young Bedouin and we communicate by signs, he is very good and communicating by sign and I realise it is because he is deaf. He invites me to his home for tea.
I enter his hut to find his family sitting around the light of a mobile phone sorting some serious business, they do not register my presence to the degree that I wonder if I'm just a figment of his imagination.
From what I can work out he owns these 4 huts around us and his baby is sleeping behind us and I'm not sure but I may have bought 4 camels, a pet cricket provides a techno sound track to the scene.
After determining the same fact for the 4th time with our limited vocabulary he decides to visit his neighbors and just gets up and walks out, for fear of his figment of imagination turning into a unwanted spirit I follow and bid him farewell and I decide to retire, it is about 8.30 after all.
I lay down on my mattress under a camel hair blanket watching the moon though the roof. My mind reels with my thoughts for India while my heart palpitates from all the sugar laden tea.
Sunday, April 1, 2007
Getting there
London is welcoming as always and then to Dahab. Sun, sea, sand and dust. Nothing is ever in a rush here.The main topic of conversation is diving, diving, and a bit more diving with a bit of drinking thrown in for good measure. Everybody moves with an easy glide that you only get from having absolutely nowhere to be and nothing that “has” to be done.I force myself to fit in.
So I get on with the serious business of winding down with some diving, people watching at rush hour, swimming or just enjoying the view from my front door.
One of the dives I did was the Blue Hole, it is really incredible, you have to dive down a chimney head first about 25 metres and then swim along a coral wall that on one side you have vibrant colourful coral teaming with life of every shape and colour and on the other side nothing but an abyss that just goes on and on into nothing. I have been told that if you dive to about 80 meters there are all the skeletons of divers that did not make it and there is a lot of them there with new ones joining them regularly.
I'm chomping at the bit to get to India, as nice as it is here where I have friends, it is all a bit safe and I really crave adventure, I have not booked flights yet but i have picked airline and am just waiting for a date to present it's self that allows me to do all I want to do here.
Anyway Better get back to some serious business, have sun to catch and time to kill.
So I get on with the serious business of winding down with some diving, people watching at rush hour, swimming or just enjoying the view from my front door.
One of the dives I did was the Blue Hole, it is really incredible, you have to dive down a chimney head first about 25 metres and then swim along a coral wall that on one side you have vibrant colourful coral teaming with life of every shape and colour and on the other side nothing but an abyss that just goes on and on into nothing. I have been told that if you dive to about 80 meters there are all the skeletons of divers that did not make it and there is a lot of them there with new ones joining them regularly.
I'm chomping at the bit to get to India, as nice as it is here where I have friends, it is all a bit safe and I really crave adventure, I have not booked flights yet but i have picked airline and am just waiting for a date to present it's self that allows me to do all I want to do here.
Anyway Better get back to some serious business, have sun to catch and time to kill.
leaving it all behind
Well to cut a long story short I made it out alive. For a moment there I really thought I would not make it away from that building alive, I was convinced that it was out to get me.
When I had done that last clean and carried the last box I walked around the building, I looked at every corner remembering childhood memories or times Da had me perched precariously at the top of a flimsy partitioned wall changing ancient light fittings. Staring at the empty place where there used to be a dining table that we had countless talks, laughs and arguments around or the empty space that we used to watch TV or movies and laugh, cry or just not get it. Of course there is the corner I smoked a joint with that guy at that party who told me that and there is the place I fell when I was 12 not to mention that nasty area out the back that I spent two weeks during the summer clearing out so I could have money for god knows what.
If only those walls could talk, the stories it could tell, though at this stage they are probably only able to mumble incoherently disparately trying to catch it's breath weasing on their one good lung. As i locked the building I was expecting a piano to fall on me and as I got on my motorbike I expected my breaks to fail or a bus to hit me. As I left the street behind me I was truly amazed.
So a beautiful last Friday night dinner with family and friends a good nights sleep and more too short but quality time with nephews and off to airport. After a blur of McDonalds and tearful goodbyes I find myself on a plane flying into the unknown, the plain surrounded by thick cloud descending into a place where time and space do not apply, welcome to the mystery journey zone!
When I had done that last clean and carried the last box I walked around the building, I looked at every corner remembering childhood memories or times Da had me perched precariously at the top of a flimsy partitioned wall changing ancient light fittings. Staring at the empty place where there used to be a dining table that we had countless talks, laughs and arguments around or the empty space that we used to watch TV or movies and laugh, cry or just not get it. Of course there is the corner I smoked a joint with that guy at that party who told me that and there is the place I fell when I was 12 not to mention that nasty area out the back that I spent two weeks during the summer clearing out so I could have money for god knows what.
If only those walls could talk, the stories it could tell, though at this stage they are probably only able to mumble incoherently disparately trying to catch it's breath weasing on their one good lung. As i locked the building I was expecting a piano to fall on me and as I got on my motorbike I expected my breaks to fail or a bus to hit me. As I left the street behind me I was truly amazed.
So a beautiful last Friday night dinner with family and friends a good nights sleep and more too short but quality time with nephews and off to airport. After a blur of McDonalds and tearful goodbyes I find myself on a plane flying into the unknown, the plain surrounded by thick cloud descending into a place where time and space do not apply, welcome to the mystery journey zone!
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