Friday, July 27, 2007
Thursday, July 26, 2007
Way Home
Way home.
Good sleep and early start as I was leaving the next day and we made record time over the 120k of desert back to Leh.
Exchange the bike for balance of the agreed amount, dinner with friends and very fond farewells to everybody.
Leh to Delhi, Delhi to Cairo, Cairo to Bilbo and the India odyssey was over, just like that. As I rode in the taxi into Bilbao I was already missing India and wondering where all the people, dirt and noise was. Disappointed by the spotless streets and lack of crowds, not to mention the lack of heat and aroma of spice and cow shite. I just wanted to get back on a plane and head straight back.
Bilbao is a beautful city though and I have a great week with the lovely Liz, gorging on great sea food and culture in the many museums.
And thats it.......................
Lamayuru Day
Rested, fed and watered we check out the monastery.
An ancient place dating from the 16thcentury is perched on top of a narrow ridge that juts out from the mountain range that towers over the valley. The climb up is only about a 100m but is steep and is like going back in time through the ages. The monastery is in different states of repair and ruin. Some parts of it have dissolved with the ridge over time as it looks as if they where created with the ridge, some of the dwellings are actually built into the soft rock and seem to be part of it.
An ancient place dating from the 16thcentury is perched on top of a narrow ridge that juts out from the mountain range that towers over the valley. The climb up is only about a 100m but is steep and is like going back in time through the ages. The monastery is in different states of repair and ruin. Some parts of it have dissolved with the ridge over time as it looks as if they where created with the ridge, some of the dwellings are actually built into the soft rock and seem to be part of it.
It is a small place but the views it commands are grander then any palace or cathedral I have ever seen. This is where god resides, not in churches or temples but here in the vast expanse.
We head down to the valley and pass the hottest part of the day in a grove by a babbling brook.
As the heat of the afternoon passed we start to head back up to the monastery stopping to explore the ancient ruins along the way. Going back in time with these crumbling relics. Children come and play around us, their beautiful faces, some though only sullied by the slightest sign of inbreeding, some more so then others (the place is cut off for most of the year, not much else to do). They do their games and play about us. Slowly we make our way to the top often loosing our selfs in the maze of abandoned half decayed reminisces of lives lost. An old school house, empty for an age or a roofless kitchen leading to a little orchard. All the while winding our way to top. We pass the late afternoon sitting in dusty places catching the monastery from different angles and different ages, messing about.
By evening we make it to the top again and sit and watch the sun set from the steps at the door of the monastery. For a while the head Lama comes and sits with us to watch the show, a great big man with a hardest soft face I have ever seen. As the sun plays out the last of his light show, flaring and bouncing colours around the range of mountains with the first stars in the sky the Lama's in the monastery give it a soundtrack from inside the monasterey, filling the air with chanting and the beating of drums and symbols with the blowing of great long trumpets. The religion here is based on circles or cycles and to worship the faithful walk around the monistery in a clockwise direction spinning the prayer wheels as they pass. Women and men some that look as older then the ruins pass us repeatedly on thier rounds.
A great feeling of gratitude fills me and I know I'm in the prescience of god.
As the light dies and more stars appear we head back down to our guest house and feast on roasted stuffed tomatoes, dal, popadom and rice. One of the best meals I have ever had.
We end the day on the roof of the guest house watching shooting stars. There is only electricity after 11pm so it was totally dark with the only light was coming from the stars and the Milky Way.
As the LSD wore off we drifted into a deep restful sleep (Wait!! LSD, flash back to 10 days earlier. I met a guy in Visthest, a Russian selling liquid LSD. We had nothing to put it on so we broke off 2 bits of chapti and dripped it onto them and wrapped them in plastic, very Indian but I thought a trip to finish my trip would round it off well.)
Road to Lamayuru
The plan is to head with Tony and his pillion of choice and I with my pillion of choice to Lamayuru a Tibetan monastery about 120k from Leh.
Tony and Priscilla, Wei and I head off early to beat the heat. Passing through the prehistoric valleys on old towns some of which look like they have fallen straight from heaven, every town we pass through we're greeted with a chorus of “Julley, Julley”.
We stop at one monastery on the way and wander around it grounds and browse the souvenir stalls. The art work inside is stunning as it is raunchy. This monastery is of a tantra order and the paintings depict gods all forms of sexual positions.
We stop at patch of heaven that is a golden field of grain that fills the floor of this valley and as we take it in a bit of ground gives way under Tony's bike stand and his bike slides down a little embankment upside down. We wrestle it back to the road (Heavy bikes these Enfields) but the damage is done. We try to drive on but the water had drained from is battery causing the wires to overheat and fuse together in a cloud of smoke and a dramatic end to their trip. After about 2 hours we finally convince a truck to take them back to Leh and Wei and I head on to Lamayuru.
Arriving late and tired we settle into a guest house and have some of the best Indian food I have had yet.
Leh
Leh is a very nice town full of Eco friendly Tibetans and travelers. The Tibetans are lovely people, always greeting you with a smile. The gender rolls are not as strict as with the Indians so the women are also friendly and great fun to talk too.
The town is in a sort of crater with mountain ridges reaching into it. On the most prominent one there is a palace that no matter where you are in the town it can be seen like the way eyes in a portrate follow you around the room.
I spend a few days taking it easy and eating mo mo and thupka.
I organize with a local guy to buy my bike and I get half the money up front and plan one last journey.
Hitting The Trail Day 3
Up at dawn, breakfast, splash of cold water and on the road again. Nowhere to stop for the next 270k, no tents to stop and sleep, no chai after the police check point about 30k. Nothing but 3 passes over 5000m and a lot of mountain. If you brake down or have an accident your on your own.
Winding along edge of a rip in the earth crust and then climbing to our second pass of over 5000m I stuck with my policy of singing to my bike, it was if we had made a deal. We had too very defined jobs to do. I had to make sure to work the throttle and gears percicly right and she had to just keep going. The deal worked and we kept climbing.
Up to the top and down the other side after a brief rest and clap on the back at the top.
Sailing over valleys the size of counties with the constant snowcapped mountains always towering around us . The views of the constantly changing valleys formed by all the forces of nature where just breathtaking. The Himalaya's are still growing and you can feel the power of such a great life force literally vibrating all around you.
Crossing what seems like an endless tangle of valleys as if we where ants on a Rhino, barely slowing for the occasional river we came to the Valley Of The Gods, so called because the mountains around are considered to be sitting Buddhas meditating.
A stretch of over 70k through the dusty bowl, the trail winding through the valley. After a brief stop to check the bikes and fill our selfs with what ever provisions we needed, we set off.
The trail soon turned to dust and then to sand. At the first sand drift I took what I thought was a bit of a detour around a bad patch but it was a mistake and as my front wheel hit the a deep drift the sand parted like water and my wheel sank half way up the forks but the momentum carried me forward and with the all my skill I managed to throttle out of it with the back of the bike fish tailing about wildly. I did not fall though and made it out the other side without injury to the bike.
This was just the first of the sand traps but I did not detour any of the other and made it through them all. It was one of the most challenging parts of the trip but also one of my favorets.
Then on through the valley. Crusing though the Valleys of these still, meditating gods, their basins the size of counties with grazing Yaks in the distance and clouds with their shadows drifting across the landscape I had tears rolling down my cheeks from just the shear beauty of it and my gratitude for being able to be there, the shear perfection of it struck me so deeply that I was so moved, I hold that part of the journey as one of the most powerful and defining moments in my life.
Back on an ascent, this time to the second highest motorable pass in the world.
As I climbed road workers would appear out of nowhere clearing the road or making repairs to it. At on point I can round a corner to find two women that looked as if they could be in their 80s shoveling away snow and ice that had worked its way across the road. There was no truck with them and nobody else. Just these two old ladies in the heart of the Himalaya's toiling away stopping only to give me a wave and a warm smile as I passed.
Around another corner and a good twist of the throttle to get over a muddy embankment and I was at the second highest motorable pass in the world.
I entered the highest temple in the world and gave my humble humble thanks and took in the view from this place in the sky.
We posed around a big sign that states “TAGLANGLA, ALTITUDE 17582 FT. You are passing through the second highest pass of the world, unbelievable is not it!”
The wondrous silence was broken by 3 bus loads of solders whom I entertained by guiding then around my bike.
Then down in to what used to be Tibet but is now part of India. Another different landscape with different people but this time it was with different temples. Stupas everywhere loomed along the road. Some seeming to be from prehistoric times. The people now with beautiful Asain like features all calling “Julley!” as we passed.
We kept rolling and rolling until as the evening came and turned into the night we arrived in Leh, 14 hours after leaving Sarchu. Exhausted, hungry, dirty but feeling very triumphant.
Hitting The Trail Day 2
With one pass to go before the monsoon was really behind us we set off early.
Passing through valley basins and around river beds and then starting the ascent to the first high pass of over 5000m I was still bitching about the bike and every time the bike did not respond I was still cursing the mechanics but the further I got away from them the more futile it was. On the last stretch to the first high pass on the twisting road though glacier ravished desert the bike finally with a clunk ground to a halt.
I was devastated and raging. Tony came back to check on me but there was nothing we could do. There where friend of Tony's about 2 hours behind us that had mechanics with them so I was resigned to wait for them to see if they could help and if not then I would have to put the bike on a passing truck and pay for them to bring me and the bike to Leh.
There was no point in Tony and Will waiting with me so with a hug and farewells I got back on my bike and started rolling back down the hill to a chai shop we had passed, gutted that my adventure was over.
Just out of curiosity I checked to see if the engine would start and it did! I checked to see if she would go into gear and she did!! I turned to see if Baby (Her name) would go up hill and she did!!! I started singing at the top of my lungs as if only the singing would stop the bike from stalling and keep her going up that mountain and it did. As I caught up with Will and Tony I was singing and shouting at the top of my lungs and as we turned the last corner to the pass we where all amazed and the joy we all felt at that top was amazing. Whether it was the altitude or just the shock of being there, I was truly on cloud nine.
We rolled down the other side leaving the monsoon trapped behind us, the pass so high that it never crosses over that range. We rolled to our lunch stop in a encampment of parachute tents, pulling our bikes up and getting into the tent to get out of the strong sun.
After a delicious lunch served by a beautiful Tibetan family we stretched out and rested on our laurels for the afternoon as we where on the short part of the journey and had time to kill.
Then as the day cooled a bit we headed on to Sarchu where we would spending the night.
Passing through what felt like the heart of the Himalaya's with huge valleys with snow capped mountains on all sides (The photos do not do it justice but gives a glimpse). The roads where a real bikers wet dream.
Dinner and bed as we had a mammoth day ahead of us the next day.
Hitting The Trail
After a false start, hampered by on of those days that just no matter what you do it all goes wrong and after an infuriating morning running from mechanic to mechanic shouting with sweat beading from my brow with the last of the fever, finally I was ground to a halt by a broken throttle cable 5k outside Minali and had to limp back to Visech letting Tony go on without me and I eventually resigned to the bad day and checked back into my hotel and treat myself to a relaxing evening and a good meal as I had not really eaten in 3 days. It turned out to be just what the doctor ordered as by the next morning I was fever free and refreshed with a monsoon free sky letting the sun smile on me with gentle warmth.
The bike though was not going as well as it had been, I was convinced that the mechanics I was using the day before had done a hatchet job on the bike. Ruined my noble steed by canabilizing the engine. It seemed as if all the power had been just sucked out of the engine.
I slowly climbed the mountain road cursing the mechanics every time I twisted the throttle and got nothing in return. Twice I almost turned back after a couple of turns but knowing that Tony and Will would be leaving Keylong (The last town for 365k before Leh) with or without me the next day I pressed on. At one particularly muddy and steep corner the bike ground to a halt and I was turning around to head back and knock 4 kinds of shite out of the mechanic when a group of Indians started shouting at me. I stopped and tried to explain that it was not that I could not drive but that my bike was destroyed by mechanics but they did not understand and one of the group came down and insisted on having a go at taking the turn. He made it up the steep mud to cheers and chants of his friends with the odd jeer at me for not being able to do it. I tried to explain that it was not that I could not do it but that the bike was not up to scratch but it fell on deaf ears filled with self pride, there is video footage on their camera of them all cheering around me and me shouting in fury that “YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND!!!!! It was the mechanics!!!!!” but it made no impression on them and they were just in a state of hyper excitement. They tried to get me to dance with them but I was in no mood but had to promise if we passed each other at another chai shop I would do so so they let me go.
The bike kept creeping up the mountain though and at the next stop at Rotang pass (the first pass, about 4500m) I stopped f or a chai and give the bike a rest. Sitting enjoying the view I heard a screech of tires and cheers as I turned the same group of Indians where pouring out of their jeep and coming towards me with purpose.
“You dance with us!”
“Ah.. no lads, am tired and the altitude......”
“You dance with us!, you said you would so you have too!”
I tried to object but they had none of it so I got up and they put on some slamming Indian techno. So somewhere in India there is video footage of me raving my socks off for about 10 minutes, shouting and dancing like mad man with these boys, giving it socks, gyrating, kicking the air and jumping around as if in some fit. I have to say it did lighten my mood considerably.
Getting over the Rotang Pass was a releif as at the top is where a lot of tourists go to stand on the rapidly diminishing glaciers or sit in deck chairs laid out for them, some touts even have snow mobiles to take people up the last patch of ice there. A sad sight I thought and kept going. After the pass though there are no more day tourists, its only for the serious ones now and as I free wheel down the other side I'm alone for the first time.
Snaking down the mountain into an vast valley and following the road on and on I come to my first river. A torrent it seemed cutting across the road. It was about 18 inches deep (up to my exhaust) and about 10 foot wide. I stalled for about 10 minutes watching the river and then just went for it throttling through it. Coming out the other side with only a damp shoe to show for it, I was elated. I passed the first challenge.
About 5k before Keylong I stopping at the last petrol station for 365k to fill my tank and extra container I needed for to make the journey to Leh.
Rolling into Keylong to find Tony on the side of the road and with whoops and great smiles we headed for dinner and where Will met us also.
Sunday, July 1, 2007
Vashist
A small village with hot springs is a hang out for travels that want to be away from the main tourist places. It is a serious place for smokers and everywhere the acrid smell of Chalis (as it is called here) spills out onto the street. The Kullu vally near here is a place of major production in India.The atmosphere here is very relaxed and there are some lovely little guest houses and Tibetan restaurants.Alas though I can only enjoy it through a haze of fever sweats and through the window of my bedroom as along the way I have picked up a bit of food poisoning and all I can do is wait it out and hope I'm strong enough for when we leave for Leh in a couple of days.
Ah! The road
Eager to get on the road again my early start is slightly hindered by early morning rains but don't mind too much as had a late night (after 12) last night saying goodbye to friends.At about 9.30am Will and I strike out on the road and as we head down the mountains away from Dharamshala my hearts sings "On The Road Again".Will is maybe not as eager as I or has a different pace but I'm on a mission today. When we get to the main road to Minali I show him the map and take off arranging to meet half way at Mandi. The conditions are perfect and the bike is going as if she feels the same joy as I do. I get to Mandi in very good time and with Minali only 3 hours more I decide to go fro it and txt Will my decision. So with bearly a break I head off, the bike as willing as I.The roads are very good as Minali is a big tourist stop and the scenery is amazing also, driving through vallies and small towns.The highlight of the trip in the 5k trip through a mountain by way of a great tunnel.Through Minali brushing off the touters and too a small village called Vishist where we have arranged to meet Toni who will be taking the lead to Leh.A full days driving, 9 hours in total of the most flawless driving I have ever experianced.
Last days Dharamshala
My last week in Dharamshala was not as good as my first, I felt slightly adrift and the constant rain and damp was really getting to me. I had met a load of great people but there was just too many Israelis (most of which were fine but some where just plain rude and all they where interested in was getting high and hanging out with other Israelis in Israeli restaurants). I also just felt as if I was loosing touch with India as this was pretty far away with all the westerns and shops.I also tried some tantra yoga but it just brought out pains and made me feel sick so I had to stop.I was also scouted by a local group of criminals as a likely target for a jewelry scam they run there were they ask you to import jewelry to your home where a contact will come a meet you and pay me 5000 pound sterling. This meant that I could not hang out with my Indian friends as these guys were always there and would be trying to get me to come round. Needless to say I was not taken in but it left a bad taste and the beauty of the place was slightly sullied.
Sunday, June 24, 2007
Dharamkot days
Start my days with yoga in the forest and I have signed up for a 2 day Reiki course with the venerable Dr Anand. Reiki is all about channeling the universal energy into peoples chakras for the benefit of their health. It seems my mediclorian cells are not quite off the charts but the force is strong with this one and when I practise on Dr Anand he invariably falls into a deep sleep. I do feel a huge exchange of energy, my hands getting so hot at times that I have to pull away but I don't really feel much for it. Dr Anand is a true pleasure to work with though and I really enjoy my time with him.
I spend the rest of my days chilling in "Cool Talk Corner Cafe" hanging out with the residents, eating in some lovely cafes with new friends and down in Bhagsu with my Indian friends there.
I take a good break from the bike but when I bring it to the shop I get chatting to a very interesting guy from Sweden that has been living in India for 29 years and he is on his way to Leh in Kashmir. I had heard the roads where very bad there but he has been 8 times now and really knows the way. I had originally planned to go to Leh but after my trip to Gangotri I thought I would skip it this time and stay in Dharamshala for the rest of my trip but his energy and the fact that he knows the area very well has inspired me to hit the road again and with Will (a fine American resident of the Cool Talk Corner Cafe also with a bike) Toni (the Swede) and I spend the rest of the day talking, laughing and planning our adventure north to Kashmir.
As much as I like it here in Dharamshala it is too safe and I might as well just be at home with all the westerns here and I can not pass up the opportunity to head through some of the most incredible terrain in the world with an experienced guide. The road to Leh is world famous as it is the highest motorway (I use motorway in the loosest sense of the word) in the world at 5,600m and the scenery is supposed to be just amazing. Excited again with the prospect of a great adventure my week rounds off well with Zoli's last class on the porch of an old house with monsoon rain and thunder rolling across the sky like huge boulders, mist comes in through the porch turning everybody into ghosts and adds real magic to the class.
I spend the rest of my days chilling in "Cool Talk Corner Cafe" hanging out with the residents, eating in some lovely cafes with new friends and down in Bhagsu with my Indian friends there.
I take a good break from the bike but when I bring it to the shop I get chatting to a very interesting guy from Sweden that has been living in India for 29 years and he is on his way to Leh in Kashmir. I had heard the roads where very bad there but he has been 8 times now and really knows the way. I had originally planned to go to Leh but after my trip to Gangotri I thought I would skip it this time and stay in Dharamshala for the rest of my trip but his energy and the fact that he knows the area very well has inspired me to hit the road again and with Will (a fine American resident of the Cool Talk Corner Cafe also with a bike) Toni (the Swede) and I spend the rest of the day talking, laughing and planning our adventure north to Kashmir.
As much as I like it here in Dharamshala it is too safe and I might as well just be at home with all the westerns here and I can not pass up the opportunity to head through some of the most incredible terrain in the world with an experienced guide. The road to Leh is world famous as it is the highest motorway (I use motorway in the loosest sense of the word) in the world at 5,600m and the scenery is supposed to be just amazing. Excited again with the prospect of a great adventure my week rounds off well with Zoli's last class on the porch of an old house with monsoon rain and thunder rolling across the sky like huge boulders, mist comes in through the porch turning everybody into ghosts and adds real magic to the class.
18th of June 2007
On this day at about 6.18am in 2005 my poor pops shook off his mortal coil. Not a day goes by I don't think of him but today my thoughts are with him even more and I miss him very much. Being tender I treat myself with care.
I start the day by going to yoga in the forest. Along a little track to a good flat place the where Zoli Ji does his class. Surrounded buy tall pine trees with birds and monkeys hoping and scampering about. When we lie on the ground great hawks and Griffin Vultures circle above checking us out. Zoli Ji is a great teacher and it is a wonderful class that goes on over 2 and a half hours and by the end I feel brilliant.
Hit the town to do a bit of exploring and am stopped by an Indian guy for some conversation and we are soon friends and head off for tea at the near by waterfall.
That evening he has invited me to dinner and I meet up with him and a gathering of locals and westerners is there and we pass a very nice evening sipping beer (one lasts me the whole night, I'll be a cheap date when I get home) and eating freshly prepared delicious food.
I start the day by going to yoga in the forest. Along a little track to a good flat place the where Zoli Ji does his class. Surrounded buy tall pine trees with birds and monkeys hoping and scampering about. When we lie on the ground great hawks and Griffin Vultures circle above checking us out. Zoli Ji is a great teacher and it is a wonderful class that goes on over 2 and a half hours and by the end I feel brilliant.
Hit the town to do a bit of exploring and am stopped by an Indian guy for some conversation and we are soon friends and head off for tea at the near by waterfall.
That evening he has invited me to dinner and I meet up with him and a gathering of locals and westerners is there and we pass a very nice evening sipping beer (one lasts me the whole night, I'll be a cheap date when I get home) and eating freshly prepared delicious food.
Ah Dharamkot
Dharamkot is about 2k past McLeodGanj up a steep hill into the forest. It is a peaceful green place that looks out over McLeodGanj and Bhagsu with monkeys scampering around with nice cafes and clean mountain air. It is called little Israel as it is full of Israelis.
There are also lots of "alternative people, Europeans and these are the people I gravitate too so I feel instantly at home.
Sunday, June 17, 2007
The last push
My ultimate destination on this trip is to make it to Dharamshala where his Holiness the Dali Lama lives. I wake up to a perfect day and hit the road early.
Wheels spinning, engine ticking the road unfurls in front of me as if the patch I'm on is the only thing in the world.
The landscape changes all the time. Passing from pine Forrest into deciduous wood then to rice paddies and tea fields.
Around a corner and I spot my first Tibetan monk in red garb and I know I'm close. The road just keeps going though and I keep climbing until I meet the usual tangle of traffic that signifies a town. Weave through till I find a quite guest house and book in. Destination reached is always a good feeling after booking into my 80rs room (about 1.20e) I scan a menu of goodies that you find at these places for westerners.
Chats and chess till my I catch myself falling asleep at table.
Wheels spinning, engine ticking the road unfurls in front of me as if the patch I'm on is the only thing in the world.
The landscape changes all the time. Passing from pine Forrest into deciduous wood then to rice paddies and tea fields.
Around a corner and I spot my first Tibetan monk in red garb and I know I'm close. The road just keeps going though and I keep climbing until I meet the usual tangle of traffic that signifies a town. Weave through till I find a quite guest house and book in. Destination reached is always a good feeling after booking into my 80rs room (about 1.20e) I scan a menu of goodies that you find at these places for westerners.
Chats and chess till my I catch myself falling asleep at table.
Ah Mandi
After some rough roads I reach Mandi another small town suggested to me by the guide book and I'm not disappointed at all.
It is a lovely place based around a sunken two story market and like Nahal is not on the tourist trail so a genuinely peaceful place. I find this great hotel the Raj Mahal, a place that time has forgetting with a huntsman lodge feel with a lovely garden with a pond that dragon flys flit around and comfortable rooms. The place seems to be working on out of date prices too and is really cheap for what you get.
Mandi is peaceful and chilled, the sunken market is around a park where people hang out and chat. There are supposedly lots of temples and a great view form on top of the hills but I just take it easy and spend an extra day there reading in the garden, wandering the market, dosing in my great room and taking "Hot!" showers, the second day is pretty much a wash out anyway with the monsoon. Sometimes you just have to spoil yourself.
It is a lovely place based around a sunken two story market and like Nahal is not on the tourist trail so a genuinely peaceful place. I find this great hotel the Raj Mahal, a place that time has forgetting with a huntsman lodge feel with a lovely garden with a pond that dragon flys flit around and comfortable rooms. The place seems to be working on out of date prices too and is really cheap for what you get.
Mandi is peaceful and chilled, the sunken market is around a park where people hang out and chat. There are supposedly lots of temples and a great view form on top of the hills but I just take it easy and spend an extra day there reading in the garden, wandering the market, dosing in my great room and taking "Hot!" showers, the second day is pretty much a wash out anyway with the monsoon. Sometimes you just have to spoil yourself.
Shimla
After a night of getting eaten alive by bed bugs (ah the good old days) I head out to check out the town. It is a lovely town with Tudor buildings. It is like Dublin in that it has a Gaiety Theater and a Christ Church and I'm reminded of home. Wandering around the old markets selling everything from pieces of string to guns is a trek as it is all on the side of a steep hill. Schlepping is a one of the main types of employment here and every where you see men straining up the hills under ridiculous loads.
There is a temple on the top of the hill and I take on the very steep trek up there. the temple is dedicated to Hanaman the monkey god and there are Brazen monkeys everywhere. The act as if they own the place (which they kind of do) and come up to you to check your pockets and reach in blatantly and take what ever they find. Luckily I was warned on the way up there so I have everything in my bag including my sunglasses. The monkeys have a fascination with sunglasses for some reason and steal them from right off the faces of anybody that did not heed the signs. The temple is peaceful otherwise and as my drenched tee shirt dries in the warm sun the stillness is soothing and baby monkeys play around me with mothers cradling some and nursing them. As I go to leave I see an Indian lady cradling and nursing her child in exactly the same way and I wonder if the monkeys make the same connection I do.
In the evening I go to see a documentary that is part of a film festival. The documentary is about Shimla and how the climate has changed life here, it is made by a local guy that answers questions after, as the only westerner there I'm singled out and I focus my comments on the good narrative and neglect to comment on the soundtrack of elevator music but is was a nice little movie.
Altogether Shilma is a very pretty place with great characture but I don't like the over all feel of the place with its blatant gouging and people after your cash so I resolve to leave in the morning and cut my trip here short by a day.
There is a temple on the top of the hill and I take on the very steep trek up there. the temple is dedicated to Hanaman the monkey god and there are Brazen monkeys everywhere. The act as if they own the place (which they kind of do) and come up to you to check your pockets and reach in blatantly and take what ever they find. Luckily I was warned on the way up there so I have everything in my bag including my sunglasses. The monkeys have a fascination with sunglasses for some reason and steal them from right off the faces of anybody that did not heed the signs. The temple is peaceful otherwise and as my drenched tee shirt dries in the warm sun the stillness is soothing and baby monkeys play around me with mothers cradling some and nursing them. As I go to leave I see an Indian lady cradling and nursing her child in exactly the same way and I wonder if the monkeys make the same connection I do.
In the evening I go to see a documentary that is part of a film festival. The documentary is about Shimla and how the climate has changed life here, it is made by a local guy that answers questions after, as the only westerner there I'm singled out and I focus my comments on the good narrative and neglect to comment on the soundtrack of elevator music but is was a nice little movie.
Altogether Shilma is a very pretty place with great characture but I don't like the over all feel of the place with its blatant gouging and people after your cash so I resolve to leave in the morning and cut my trip here short by a day.
On the road again day 2
My early start is thwarted by monsoon rains and I pull the covers up to enjoy the intoxication you only get from a warm bed with the sound of torrential rain outside.
I'm disturbed from my haze by the owner knocking on my door and calling me happily to get up. I go the door to be greeted by an elated man that brings me to the window to watch the rain. He explains joyfully with a clap on the back that his farm has been suffering and the rain is the best thing he has seen in ages. We chat with chai as the downpour continues. After discussing the nature of god the rain stops and he shows me his oyster mushroom farm under the guesthouse (that explains the slightly dank room).
The sky has cleared so its on the road again to Shimla.
I know I'm getting close to Shimla with the increase of hell bent bus drivers that rush up behind me beeping and fly past around the corner with the chaises leaning almost to the point that they must flip over but manage not to.
Shilma is considered the archetypal hill station and is a very popular tourist destination for the Indians. As I drive into the town touts actually run out into the middle of the road shouting to me about hotel rooms till a bus comes by and they launch onto it, clinging to its sides as it rolls into the bus station calling to the passengers about rooms.
The hills are covered with what looks like a chaotic landslid of buildings cascading down.
In the hotels you have to haggle furiously and I walk out of a few till I'm called back with a price I like.
The room I find is very reminiscent of flats I have lived in in my youth with that slightly damp smell complete with silver fish but I find it all a quite comforting in a funny way.
After dinner I wander back to my room, I pass a one table pool hall and head in for a look. It is the dankest pool room I have ever seen with mouldy wallpaper climbing the walls. The table champion is called and we play. I'm set to win the second game but I'm informed that I can not pot the black in center pocket for some reason as I'm lined up to do and he wins the game. After asking me if I want to bet I refuse as it the odds are against me if they're going to make up the rules as they go and suddenly the shutters are down and I'm out on the street. To bed and sleep.
I'm disturbed from my haze by the owner knocking on my door and calling me happily to get up. I go the door to be greeted by an elated man that brings me to the window to watch the rain. He explains joyfully with a clap on the back that his farm has been suffering and the rain is the best thing he has seen in ages. We chat with chai as the downpour continues. After discussing the nature of god the rain stops and he shows me his oyster mushroom farm under the guesthouse (that explains the slightly dank room).
The sky has cleared so its on the road again to Shimla.
I know I'm getting close to Shimla with the increase of hell bent bus drivers that rush up behind me beeping and fly past around the corner with the chaises leaning almost to the point that they must flip over but manage not to.
Shilma is considered the archetypal hill station and is a very popular tourist destination for the Indians. As I drive into the town touts actually run out into the middle of the road shouting to me about hotel rooms till a bus comes by and they launch onto it, clinging to its sides as it rolls into the bus station calling to the passengers about rooms.
The hills are covered with what looks like a chaotic landslid of buildings cascading down.
In the hotels you have to haggle furiously and I walk out of a few till I'm called back with a price I like.
The room I find is very reminiscent of flats I have lived in in my youth with that slightly damp smell complete with silver fish but I find it all a quite comforting in a funny way.
After dinner I wander back to my room, I pass a one table pool hall and head in for a look. It is the dankest pool room I have ever seen with mouldy wallpaper climbing the walls. The table champion is called and we play. I'm set to win the second game but I'm informed that I can not pot the black in center pocket for some reason as I'm lined up to do and he wins the game. After asking me if I want to bet I refuse as it the odds are against me if they're going to make up the rules as they go and suddenly the shutters are down and I'm out on the street. To bed and sleep.
On the road again
Leave Dehra Dun and head north. I have a routine now where I leave town before breakfast and stop in a roadside cafe along the way for chai and usually aloo parathan (A filled bread lightly fried). It is really a treat as the chai is always best from these places and the parathan is always different and generally good. As I move north the recipes change and how it is served, sometimes with curd and/or a sort of bean stew (different everywhere I go).
The roads here are good so the going is easy and after the service the bike is going great. Spinning through the hills.
I have been in the state of Utteranchal for almost 2 months and as the sign looms "You are now leaving Utteranchal, Welcome to Himchel Pradesh" I'm delighted and it spures me on.
My first stop is a little town called Nahal, founded in 1621 it's narrow winding streets with crumbling architecture reminds me of towns I visited in France.
It is very peaceful but that may be due to the fact that it is a sort of holiday and all the markets are closed.
The town sees very few tourist so everybody is genuinely friendly. The old architecture some almost mock Tudor gives me a real homely feel. It is definitely one of the wealthier towns I have visited. In the center of town there is a big playing field where kids play cricket and football.
Through the labyrinth of streets little temples appear with groups of women singing.
Wandering aimlessly around I soon get completely lost but it is not long till I'm found by a couple of kids that guide me back to a landmark I recognise. I reward the kids with ice pops and we sit watching the games by the playing field and chat and laugh eating our pops.
After a while I take my leave and realise that even from this landmark I have completely forgotten where my guest house is and don't even remember the name. I wander around trying to find an alley I remember but they all look the same in the fading light. I eventually remember the name of a guest house beside it and I ask a few people that stare blankly back at me till I eventually I follow a point down an alley and around a corner and I'm very relived to see my bike there, ironically the guest house is called "De Remembrance"
The roads here are good so the going is easy and after the service the bike is going great. Spinning through the hills.
I have been in the state of Utteranchal for almost 2 months and as the sign looms "You are now leaving Utteranchal, Welcome to Himchel Pradesh" I'm delighted and it spures me on.
My first stop is a little town called Nahal, founded in 1621 it's narrow winding streets with crumbling architecture reminds me of towns I visited in France.
It is very peaceful but that may be due to the fact that it is a sort of holiday and all the markets are closed.
The town sees very few tourist so everybody is genuinely friendly. The old architecture some almost mock Tudor gives me a real homely feel. It is definitely one of the wealthier towns I have visited. In the center of town there is a big playing field where kids play cricket and football.
Through the labyrinth of streets little temples appear with groups of women singing.
Wandering aimlessly around I soon get completely lost but it is not long till I'm found by a couple of kids that guide me back to a landmark I recognise. I reward the kids with ice pops and we sit watching the games by the playing field and chat and laugh eating our pops.
After a while I take my leave and realise that even from this landmark I have completely forgotten where my guest house is and don't even remember the name. I wander around trying to find an alley I remember but they all look the same in the fading light. I eventually remember the name of a guest house beside it and I ask a few people that stare blankly back at me till I eventually I follow a point down an alley and around a corner and I'm very relived to see my bike there, ironically the guest house is called "De Remembrance"
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Gangotri days
Hung around town to take it in and chat to people I had met there, I hang out with Ashish his Uncle and an Italian they had picked up along the way. Ashish (an Indian from Delhi) was a very interesting guy, a software engineer that is now a farmer and we get along very well with intermittent outburst from Surgio the Italian guy, great fun was had and we eat and chat late into the evening (well 12 is late in India).
Next Morning after not leaving as I said I would I head out for breakfast and bump into an American guy I was chatting to when I first arrived.
All along the banks there are Sadhu living in caves and we decide to see if we can find one and head along the rough rivers edge sometimes walking over small glaciers. All along there are little dwellings built under huge rocks set into the side of the mountain. Some with tiny windows and some even with iron chimneys coming out the side and little areas out front for cooking and eating. It occurs to me that Tolken must have traveled to India at some point.
As the trail runs out we eventually meet a Sadhu and he invites us into his little cave under this huge boulder. The cave is tiny with just enough room for the 3 of us and I give him a gift of some insents.
His English is very good, he says he learned from tourists visiting him hear and I can tell right away he knew the routine well. Sit in cave for couple of minutes, drink tea and have a chilum. We're not the first to visit him, not by a long shot and all the questions we have for him he has been asked many times before but he answers them with warmth. His eyes portray great calm and contentment with his lot and as we smoke from his chilum he tells us stories about the gods. I leave feeling slightly that I was just part of a show but the peace in these little alcoves of trees and rock tells me it is us and not him that are making the show.
A great dinner with Ashish, his Uncle and Sergio with a topping of South Park on Sergio's laptop and to bed.
Get up early and hit the road, the poor bike is really a bit worse for wear with the front shocks covered in oil from being burst from the rocky roads and the engine eating oil because I never get out of second gear but she keeps going, back over the mud tracks that have turned to dust making it harder to see the rocks. 10 hours I drive back to Champa all the time promising the bike that I'll give her a nice full service as soon as we get there, stopping occasionally to pick up bits of the bike that have broken off, I find that I've lost my tool box god knows when, the welding having just sheared off somewhere back there. Fall into a hotel still vibrating, stare at the colours on the TV and at some stage fall asleep.
Next morning hit road early again to get to Dehra Dun the capital of this area and book into a swanky hotel (swanky for India is only 20e a night) as I feel I need the comfort. Find a mechanic who works all day to get bike back to like new with a new clutch plate and all missing parts replaced.
After dinner I wonder around town and find a concert in a park. Sitting for a while I take in the amazing music and over my thanks again to Ganesh at the alter for helping get here.
Then back to my swanky hotel and deep sleep.
Next Morning after not leaving as I said I would I head out for breakfast and bump into an American guy I was chatting to when I first arrived.
All along the banks there are Sadhu living in caves and we decide to see if we can find one and head along the rough rivers edge sometimes walking over small glaciers. All along there are little dwellings built under huge rocks set into the side of the mountain. Some with tiny windows and some even with iron chimneys coming out the side and little areas out front for cooking and eating. It occurs to me that Tolken must have traveled to India at some point.
As the trail runs out we eventually meet a Sadhu and he invites us into his little cave under this huge boulder. The cave is tiny with just enough room for the 3 of us and I give him a gift of some insents.
His English is very good, he says he learned from tourists visiting him hear and I can tell right away he knew the routine well. Sit in cave for couple of minutes, drink tea and have a chilum. We're not the first to visit him, not by a long shot and all the questions we have for him he has been asked many times before but he answers them with warmth. His eyes portray great calm and contentment with his lot and as we smoke from his chilum he tells us stories about the gods. I leave feeling slightly that I was just part of a show but the peace in these little alcoves of trees and rock tells me it is us and not him that are making the show.
A great dinner with Ashish, his Uncle and Sergio with a topping of South Park on Sergio's laptop and to bed.
Get up early and hit the road, the poor bike is really a bit worse for wear with the front shocks covered in oil from being burst from the rocky roads and the engine eating oil because I never get out of second gear but she keeps going, back over the mud tracks that have turned to dust making it harder to see the rocks. 10 hours I drive back to Champa all the time promising the bike that I'll give her a nice full service as soon as we get there, stopping occasionally to pick up bits of the bike that have broken off, I find that I've lost my tool box god knows when, the welding having just sheared off somewhere back there. Fall into a hotel still vibrating, stare at the colours on the TV and at some stage fall asleep.
Next morning hit road early again to get to Dehra Dun the capital of this area and book into a swanky hotel (swanky for India is only 20e a night) as I feel I need the comfort. Find a mechanic who works all day to get bike back to like new with a new clutch plate and all missing parts replaced.
After dinner I wonder around town and find a concert in a park. Sitting for a while I take in the amazing music and over my thanks again to Ganesh at the alter for helping get here.
Then back to my swanky hotel and deep sleep.
Road to Gamok
Hit the trial at 6am. As I head along the valley opens to views of snow capped mountains all around. After breakfast in a tea stall about 2k along I set off again. Because the air is so thin at this altitude the sun is very strong and even with my SPF 30 I get a little singed and red. After a few stops for chai I arrive at the ashram that I'll be staying the night at, I'm now at 3800m. I get the last place as the person who asked about 15mins after me is turned away and has to make the 14k trek back disappointed.
The rooms are even more basic then at previous ashram with just dorms that consist of blankets on the floor.
After a bit of lunch I'm feeling good and the weather is clear so I decide to go on to Gamok that is only another 4k.
At this altitude the air is thinner so the sun really gets at you. The views are of crisp snowy mountains with birds of prey soring high. The peaks reaching over 6000m around me.
The trail ends and there on a boulder in bold colours is the marker for 4000m. Everest is 8800m so I'm at almost half it height. Here there is a makeshift temple where i give thanks to Ganesh (the god that removes obstacles) for helping to make the journey as easy as possible.
As the trail turns to boulders and then to an end I'm there, at the source of the Ganga that flows out of an ancient glacier. I drop to my knees and wash my head in the freezing water and drink handfuls to refresh my spirit. As I sit by the river under the glacier tears roll down my cheeks.
After I get up I'm hit with absolute exhaustion, I stagger back over the boulders to the trail and find the first tea shop and collapse in the tent. I pour a liter of water down my throat and a packet of maggi noodles to give me the strength to get back the 4k to the ashram.
Feeling very weak and fuzzy I slowly walk back, sometimes stumbling over the rocks. By the time I get back to ashram my head is pounding and I feel so weak all I can do is go to bed in the dorm. The altitude has gotten to me after all and i can barley see with the pain.
I can hear all the other people filling up the rest of the ashram and many of them sound sicker then I do but I don't find much consolation. I skip dinner unable to move and drift in and out of sleep. I have been joined in the dorm by a French guy but I don't get much sympathy but the company is welcome even though he must have thought me mad from my groaning and incoherent sporadic chat.
The night went on as did the pain, the only solice I found was in the intermittent sleep. We where also joined by a furry friend and was woken by his scurrying and a shout from John when it ran over his face.
The next morning the headache had gone thankfully but I was still feeling pretty shaky as John and I headed back the 14k to Gangotri. When i got back to town I headed straight to a hotel and slept till evening.
The rooms are even more basic then at previous ashram with just dorms that consist of blankets on the floor.
After a bit of lunch I'm feeling good and the weather is clear so I decide to go on to Gamok that is only another 4k.
At this altitude the air is thinner so the sun really gets at you. The views are of crisp snowy mountains with birds of prey soring high. The peaks reaching over 6000m around me.
The trail ends and there on a boulder in bold colours is the marker for 4000m. Everest is 8800m so I'm at almost half it height. Here there is a makeshift temple where i give thanks to Ganesh (the god that removes obstacles) for helping to make the journey as easy as possible.
As the trail turns to boulders and then to an end I'm there, at the source of the Ganga that flows out of an ancient glacier. I drop to my knees and wash my head in the freezing water and drink handfuls to refresh my spirit. As I sit by the river under the glacier tears roll down my cheeks.
After I get up I'm hit with absolute exhaustion, I stagger back over the boulders to the trail and find the first tea shop and collapse in the tent. I pour a liter of water down my throat and a packet of maggi noodles to give me the strength to get back the 4k to the ashram.
Feeling very weak and fuzzy I slowly walk back, sometimes stumbling over the rocks. By the time I get back to ashram my head is pounding and I feel so weak all I can do is go to bed in the dorm. The altitude has gotten to me after all and i can barley see with the pain.
I can hear all the other people filling up the rest of the ashram and many of them sound sicker then I do but I don't find much consolation. I skip dinner unable to move and drift in and out of sleep. I have been joined in the dorm by a French guy but I don't get much sympathy but the company is welcome even though he must have thought me mad from my groaning and incoherent sporadic chat.
The night went on as did the pain, the only solice I found was in the intermittent sleep. We where also joined by a furry friend and was woken by his scurrying and a shout from John when it ran over his face.
The next morning the headache had gone thankfully but I was still feeling pretty shaky as John and I headed back the 14k to Gangotri. When i got back to town I headed straight to a hotel and slept till evening.
Gangotri Day 2
The Krishna ashram that is basic to say the least, my room is dark with a small glassless window just covered by a sack. The beds are made of hard wood with thin mattresses on them and the blankets are like the mattress, about 3 inches thick. It is a very nice place though and everybody staying are nice and chilled. The Swami is a very cool guy that seems to be in and out of a trance all the time. Food is included in the price and it is served to us as we sit under the eves of the main building and the rough wooden floor.
The morning is warm with the sun shinning and the clear thin air means I can see the peaks with real 35mm HD clarity (sorry one for the movie geeks but it really is that clear).
The town consists of one main street lined with restaurants and shops. The street teems with people from all over India with a few white faces popping up between all the dark colourful masses.
I shop around for some warmer clothes and eat some good food with interesting conversations. The place attracts interesting people as it is a hard journey only serious pilgrims make it.
Decide I'll make the 18k trek to Gamok ("The Cows Mouth" the source of the Ganga) in the morning as I feel fit and ready so spend the day resting up and filling up.
The morning is warm with the sun shinning and the clear thin air means I can see the peaks with real 35mm HD clarity (sorry one for the movie geeks but it really is that clear).
The town consists of one main street lined with restaurants and shops. The street teems with people from all over India with a few white faces popping up between all the dark colourful masses.
I shop around for some warmer clothes and eat some good food with interesting conversations. The place attracts interesting people as it is a hard journey only serious pilgrims make it.
Decide I'll make the 18k trek to Gamok ("The Cows Mouth" the source of the Ganga) in the morning as I feel fit and ready so spend the day resting up and filling up.
Road to Gangotri
Up and out early as I know I have a long way of bad roads to go.
Nothing could have prepared me for the condition of the travel. The roads make my last trip look like a stroll in the park. 6 months of the year Gangotri is cut off by snow and ice so when the summer comes and everything thaws the road is washed by landslides and rivulets coming off the mountain leaving nothing but mud and rocks for about 50k of the journey. The going is very hard and it takes all my concentrate and skill to stay on the track and avoid buses and jeeps.
I stop for a rest at one of the tea stalls along the way and with chai I talk to some of the Sadhu (Holy men that you find all over the place) that are making their way to Gangotri, some by foot. One man is nearing the end of his 2000k walk here. As I chat to them they smoke chilums and drink tea giving to them for free by tea stall owner. I refuse the smoke as I need all my focus to get over these roads. I don't know how people travel on them by conventional means but every now and then I pass a Vespa and marvel at how it can make it over this terrain.
As I slowly bounce around one corner I catch my first glimpse of a snow capped mountain and I know I'm in the Himalaya at last and I whoop with joy. The sight is just breath taking and i almost fall off the bike with awe.
The road eventually becomes back to patches of tarmac and then to actual stretches of it but they get steep and the traffic moves faster.
As i snake up higher and higher the views are just spectacular. Valleys a 1000 feet deep drop off the side of the road with snow capped mountains looking down on me.
Eventually the road twists into a traffic jam that is bumper to bumper with buses front bumper to front bumper, just sitting there looking at each other through their windscreens. It is another 2k to Gangotri so I leave bike and walk the rest, will come back when they eventually sort out mess. I walk past some westerns sitting, waiting for traffic to move, they have been here for 4 hours already.
Into town and across to Krishna Ashram (Giving shelter to the world for a 100 years (it says at gate)).
Gangotri is at 3047 meters so the air is cooler here. There is no pollution and it has been raining the day before so the air is so clear that I can see the peaks 40 miles away as if they where right next to me.
Lunch of cold dal and rice and back to retrieve bike and luggage with the hope that the traffic has cleared. Luckily only a few buses and cars from this tetris game are left and I get through after a bit.
As the evening comes so does the rain and cold. In Ramnigar I prayed for this cold but here the novelty wears off quickly. Hot chai is the only comfort for my body but the view and the achievement also warm my sole.
Nothing could have prepared me for the condition of the travel. The roads make my last trip look like a stroll in the park. 6 months of the year Gangotri is cut off by snow and ice so when the summer comes and everything thaws the road is washed by landslides and rivulets coming off the mountain leaving nothing but mud and rocks for about 50k of the journey. The going is very hard and it takes all my concentrate and skill to stay on the track and avoid buses and jeeps.
I stop for a rest at one of the tea stalls along the way and with chai I talk to some of the Sadhu (Holy men that you find all over the place) that are making their way to Gangotri, some by foot. One man is nearing the end of his 2000k walk here. As I chat to them they smoke chilums and drink tea giving to them for free by tea stall owner. I refuse the smoke as I need all my focus to get over these roads. I don't know how people travel on them by conventional means but every now and then I pass a Vespa and marvel at how it can make it over this terrain.
As I slowly bounce around one corner I catch my first glimpse of a snow capped mountain and I know I'm in the Himalaya at last and I whoop with joy. The sight is just breath taking and i almost fall off the bike with awe.
The road eventually becomes back to patches of tarmac and then to actual stretches of it but they get steep and the traffic moves faster.
As i snake up higher and higher the views are just spectacular. Valleys a 1000 feet deep drop off the side of the road with snow capped mountains looking down on me.
Eventually the road twists into a traffic jam that is bumper to bumper with buses front bumper to front bumper, just sitting there looking at each other through their windscreens. It is another 2k to Gangotri so I leave bike and walk the rest, will come back when they eventually sort out mess. I walk past some westerns sitting, waiting for traffic to move, they have been here for 4 hours already.
Into town and across to Krishna Ashram (Giving shelter to the world for a 100 years (it says at gate)).
Gangotri is at 3047 meters so the air is cooler here. There is no pollution and it has been raining the day before so the air is so clear that I can see the peaks 40 miles away as if they where right next to me.
Lunch of cold dal and rice and back to retrieve bike and luggage with the hope that the traffic has cleared. Luckily only a few buses and cars from this tetris game are left and I get through after a bit.
As the evening comes so does the rain and cold. In Ramnigar I prayed for this cold but here the novelty wears off quickly. Hot chai is the only comfort for my body but the view and the achievement also warm my sole.
Road to Gangotri Day 3
Found farewell to Raj after he tweaks the bike a little and its back on the road. Stop in Kamad to have breakfast with my friends there. I get the cook to show me how to make Parathan and rolling again. When I get to the place I broke down I tense as I pass in case there is an invisible barrier that the bike can not pass but I sail by with a breath of relief.
The bike is going great no so I make good time to Utterkashi the last big town before Gangotri that has things like petrol and fruit supplies. I have another 120k to go to Gangotri so I stock up on essentials and head to small town about 8k along the road called Netala. I have heard of Netala before as there is an ashram there I want to visit. Netala is a lovely small town on banks of Ganga with little green fields and small lawns.
After settling into small hotel I wander up the road to find the Shivinanda Kutri Ashram. It is a lovely immaculate small ashram on the river bank just under an ancient suspension bridge.
The vibe is peaceful and I head to a little beach that the ashram backs onto.
As I sit on the bank I meditate on the satisfaction of reaching a place I wanted to visit and how I got here and where I'm going too. As the realisation of my trip here comes to me tears whell in my eyes and roll down my cheeks as I'm overcome by the beauty of what I have seen and my gratitude for being able to be here. A quick rinse in Ganga and back to hotel for dinner and fitful sleep.
The bike is going great no so I make good time to Utterkashi the last big town before Gangotri that has things like petrol and fruit supplies. I have another 120k to go to Gangotri so I stock up on essentials and head to small town about 8k along the road called Netala. I have heard of Netala before as there is an ashram there I want to visit. Netala is a lovely small town on banks of Ganga with little green fields and small lawns.
After settling into small hotel I wander up the road to find the Shivinanda Kutri Ashram. It is a lovely immaculate small ashram on the river bank just under an ancient suspension bridge.
The vibe is peaceful and I head to a little beach that the ashram backs onto.
As I sit on the bank I meditate on the satisfaction of reaching a place I wanted to visit and how I got here and where I'm going too. As the realisation of my trip here comes to me tears whell in my eyes and roll down my cheeks as I'm overcome by the beauty of what I have seen and my gratitude for being able to be here. A quick rinse in Ganga and back to hotel for dinner and fitful sleep.
Road to Gangotri day 2
Ring my mechanic in Rishikesh to make sure he is sending somebody. He assures me he is on his way.
I send they day watching every car, bus and motorbike enter and leave town and reading the Dali lama's Biography till eventually at 5pm a lone figure gets off the bus with a little bag and walks towards the bike.
Raj is here at last and we set to work. I was warned when I was talking to people about getting a bike that I would be spending allot of time around mechanics but now I really understand.
Turns out some wires had melted and were shorting the electrics but Raj was well able to deal with it and after about an hour the bike was purring again. It was evening and I had to get Raj to place where he could get lift back to Rishikesh so I had to backtrack about 40k to Champa where we stayed the night as it was too late for him to get bus so I had to put him up and feed him. Raj was good company though and we chatted and laughed till is was time for sleep.
I send they day watching every car, bus and motorbike enter and leave town and reading the Dali lama's Biography till eventually at 5pm a lone figure gets off the bus with a little bag and walks towards the bike.
Raj is here at last and we set to work. I was warned when I was talking to people about getting a bike that I would be spending allot of time around mechanics but now I really understand.
Turns out some wires had melted and were shorting the electrics but Raj was well able to deal with it and after about an hour the bike was purring again. It was evening and I had to get Raj to place where he could get lift back to Rishikesh so I had to backtrack about 40k to Champa where we stayed the night as it was too late for him to get bus so I had to put him up and feed him. Raj was good company though and we chatted and laughed till is was time for sleep.
Road to Gangotri
After a few days of R&R in Rishikesh with the bike serviced its time to go again. This time I'm going solo as I hear the roads are pretty bad to Gangotri and I have to carry all my luggage.
Hit the road with the engine humming and the tarmac consistent. The day is sunny but not too hot and the road twists and turns under my wheels as I spin along the side of the mountains passing over deep valleys and through small towns.
All was going very well till the bike began to stall and the horn stopped working then the bike just stopped! I tried everything but I could not get it working. Luckily I was in a small town called Kamand where there was a mechanic but he could do nothing either so I called my mechanic in Rishikesh and he sent a guy out to me but it would not be till the next day as it was getting into evening now. As with all the small towns i have been in it is not long till I have attracted a crowd and a friend or two. One, Davidson an army Corporal on 60 day holiday who knows everybody in town sorts me out with hotel and a place to eat. The only hotel in the town has a few rooms but under the rooms are these garage like spaces, Davidson informs me that this is where the pilgrims stay for the night when they pass through for Gangotri, the rooms sleep about 30 on the floor. As i look around the town with a few people wondering about I wonder how they fill the rooms. My question is answered as when it gets dark and the buses roll in and suddenly the towns population is tripled.
Dinner of Chapati and mixed veg then to bed.
Hit the road with the engine humming and the tarmac consistent. The day is sunny but not too hot and the road twists and turns under my wheels as I spin along the side of the mountains passing over deep valleys and through small towns.
All was going very well till the bike began to stall and the horn stopped working then the bike just stopped! I tried everything but I could not get it working. Luckily I was in a small town called Kamand where there was a mechanic but he could do nothing either so I called my mechanic in Rishikesh and he sent a guy out to me but it would not be till the next day as it was getting into evening now. As with all the small towns i have been in it is not long till I have attracted a crowd and a friend or two. One, Davidson an army Corporal on 60 day holiday who knows everybody in town sorts me out with hotel and a place to eat. The only hotel in the town has a few rooms but under the rooms are these garage like spaces, Davidson informs me that this is where the pilgrims stay for the night when they pass through for Gangotri, the rooms sleep about 30 on the floor. As i look around the town with a few people wondering about I wonder how they fill the rooms. My question is answered as when it gets dark and the buses roll in and suddenly the towns population is tripled.
Dinner of Chapati and mixed veg then to bed.
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Road home
Am up at 5am packed and on the road at 5.30. This time we take the main road.
These roads are better then some of the national roads at home and we make good time. My mantra I keep repeating to myself is "keep us cool and keep us safe" and thank you to whom ever was listening as the day turned out to be a cool day promising rain but just keeping it at bay.
The traffic is crazy. As I have mentioned before the only rule is the larger machine gets right of way. The TATA's (the big trucks used for hauling) are kings of the road and you just have to get out of their way. Going around a corner and all of a sudden your facing two TATAs, one overtaking the other coming straight for you and all you can do is hit the brakes and pull off the road. It is challenging but rewarding too. It is great to stop at the small towns. When we stop for a break within minutes there is a crowd formed to just stare at us sitting drinking tea. At one town we lost count at 45 people. You just get used to it though and it does make you feel sort of special, when your in the mood for it.
Another stop to wait out a light shower and sitting under the eves of small house on the side of the road. The Family comes out with tea and melon to refresh us with kids in rags running around gawking at us. Spirits lifted and refreshed its back on the road fighting our way back home.
350 km from Ramnigar to Rishikesh in just over 6 hours. A dusty self satisfied clap on my back as I sit with a well earned fresh lemon soda.
3 days to get there and 6 hours back, its the adventure that counts though.
These roads are better then some of the national roads at home and we make good time. My mantra I keep repeating to myself is "keep us cool and keep us safe" and thank you to whom ever was listening as the day turned out to be a cool day promising rain but just keeping it at bay.
The traffic is crazy. As I have mentioned before the only rule is the larger machine gets right of way. The TATA's (the big trucks used for hauling) are kings of the road and you just have to get out of their way. Going around a corner and all of a sudden your facing two TATAs, one overtaking the other coming straight for you and all you can do is hit the brakes and pull off the road. It is challenging but rewarding too. It is great to stop at the small towns. When we stop for a break within minutes there is a crowd formed to just stare at us sitting drinking tea. At one town we lost count at 45 people. You just get used to it though and it does make you feel sort of special, when your in the mood for it.
Another stop to wait out a light shower and sitting under the eves of small house on the side of the road. The Family comes out with tea and melon to refresh us with kids in rags running around gawking at us. Spirits lifted and refreshed its back on the road fighting our way back home.
350 km from Ramnigar to Rishikesh in just over 6 hours. A dusty self satisfied clap on my back as I sit with a well earned fresh lemon soda.
3 days to get there and 6 hours back, its the adventure that counts though.
Corbett Dawn
Woken at 5am to head out in jeep again. This time we see herds of wild elephants, muggers (a type of croc) and gharials (also a type of croc). Lots more deer that are too relaxed for my liking and lots of birds.
The park at dawn is very special but alas no tigers, we see their prints, hear them, smell them and I'm sure I felt one watching us but no sightings.
They where definitely there as other groups saw them, one jeep was even attacked by one when it got too close to a tigress's cubs.
Back to hot dusty Ramnigar not quite empty handed but a bit disappointed.
Spend a uncomfortable afternoon and evening there which put me in a "I'm over India mood" and my will is to hit the road at day break to beat the heat.
The park at dawn is very special but alas no tigers, we see their prints, hear them, smell them and I'm sure I felt one watching us but no sightings.
They where definitely there as other groups saw them, one jeep was even attacked by one when it got too close to a tigress's cubs.
Back to hot dusty Ramnigar not quite empty handed but a bit disappointed.
Spend a uncomfortable afternoon and evening there which put me in a "I'm over India mood" and my will is to hit the road at day break to beat the heat.
Corbett at last
The main reception for the Jim Corbitt National park in Ramnigar opens at 8.30 am. Sue and I where there at 8 and there was already a que. Like everywhere here its paper work, paper work, paper work. They say "The British invented bureaucracy but the Indians perfected it". Everywhere you go you have to fill out forms in triplicate. Sue does a great job of sorting it all out at the counter (women are allowed to que barge) and we even pick up 2 Germans to help spread the cost. We only manage to get one night in the park as it is high season and the place is packed.
Grab a stoned Juan and stick him in the jeep and we're off to find some tigers.
Its 10.30am and the heat is sweltering but our spirits our high as we actually made it to the park against all odds.
The park is vast and the jeep bounces along into the heart where we're to stay for the night.
We stop every now and then to view deer and birds. The jungle here is dense.
When we get to Dikala where we are staying it's more paper work in triplicate then onto our log cabin with bunk beds 3 high.
The elephants are out doing a census of the wild elephants and they have a day off tomorrow so we will not get a chance to go along on an elephant which is a bit disappointing but we get to go by jeep safari instead.
After a good siesta we head off in the jeep in search of a big cat. The park is really beautiful with amazing views of mountains and jungle.We spot wild deer and dozens of species of birds and a few elephant. We see the tiger tracks but no tigers.
Its back to the camp where they show an old nature movie on a reel to reel projector, the whirring of the reels and the speckled picture sends me back in time.
Then to bed.
Grab a stoned Juan and stick him in the jeep and we're off to find some tigers.
Its 10.30am and the heat is sweltering but our spirits our high as we actually made it to the park against all odds.
The park is vast and the jeep bounces along into the heart where we're to stay for the night.
We stop every now and then to view deer and birds. The jungle here is dense.
When we get to Dikala where we are staying it's more paper work in triplicate then onto our log cabin with bunk beds 3 high.
The elephants are out doing a census of the wild elephants and they have a day off tomorrow so we will not get a chance to go along on an elephant which is a bit disappointing but we get to go by jeep safari instead.
After a good siesta we head off in the jeep in search of a big cat. The park is really beautiful with amazing views of mountains and jungle.We spot wild deer and dozens of species of birds and a few elephant. We see the tiger tracks but no tigers.
Its back to the camp where they show an old nature movie on a reel to reel projector, the whirring of the reels and the speckled picture sends me back in time.
Then to bed.
Road trip day 3
The next day he comes to the hotel and he brings me for breakfast then to get the key made. As we go to part ways I can not express my gratitude enough, I ask him what I can offer as thanks and he just grabs me in a big bear hug which I return whole heatedly and a tear whells in my eye and off he goes. Deven you are a fucking angel.
By this time it is 10am and is getting HOT!!! but we decide to get on the road to Ramnigar another 150km south and it is already in late 30s.
Being on the bike in this weather is like being in a furnace, we drive on through the heat of the day and it just keeps getting hotter and hotter. By early evening we arrive in Ramnigar destroyed, baked and exhausted.
Ramnigar is a dusty hot town with no real redeeming features at all. We book into a hotel with no A/C as there is only one hotel in the town with A/C and there is no chance of getting in there.
Fried, with dry throats that all the rain in Ireland could not rehydrate all we can do is lie staring at the fuzzy black and white TV with only one channel (luckily in english).
My phone rings and it is Juan our 3rd person that came by bus, we thought there was no way he would make it as the last time we saw him he was assuring us through very stoned eyes that he would "sort out the bus tomorrow." He is in the Hotel that turns out to be just across the road from the one we're in and I can see him from my window. Alls well that ends well I reckon.
By this time it is 10am and is getting HOT!!! but we decide to get on the road to Ramnigar another 150km south and it is already in late 30s.
Being on the bike in this weather is like being in a furnace, we drive on through the heat of the day and it just keeps getting hotter and hotter. By early evening we arrive in Ramnigar destroyed, baked and exhausted.
Ramnigar is a dusty hot town with no real redeeming features at all. We book into a hotel with no A/C as there is only one hotel in the town with A/C and there is no chance of getting in there.
Fried, with dry throats that all the rain in Ireland could not rehydrate all we can do is lie staring at the fuzzy black and white TV with only one channel (luckily in english).
My phone rings and it is Juan our 3rd person that came by bus, we thought there was no way he would make it as the last time we saw him he was assuring us through very stoned eyes that he would "sort out the bus tomorrow." He is in the Hotel that turns out to be just across the road from the one we're in and I can see him from my window. Alls well that ends well I reckon.
Road trip day 2
Wake up to a flat tyre and frantic ack'ing and hacking, Ack assures me there is a pump in the town so I don't worry. Am not surprised about tyre as the roads had to take their toll.
Sue and I do our morning yoga with Ack looking on intently, for the first time he is silent, during session I catch his eye and he meets mine with a sincere nod of approval. The silence is only broken by the birds in the trees and Ack's frequent hacking up of flem. He sits through the whole 2 hours watching intently.
After yoga its back to the serious business of getting back on the road so I head into town for pump. As is the way in India everything is more complicated then you would imagine.
The whole town knows who we are and our business. I head to the main shop, luckily puncture is the same in Hindi so that messages get through no problem, I ask about a pump and I get a head wobble and "yes sir, no problem. Would you like Chai?"
I sit back and have my tea and have the customary conversation and buy a few bits and pieces. After 30 mins I ask about pump again and I get a head wobble and "yes sir, no problem."
I cant rush these people as they have stuff to do, I'm sure besides stand round watching me drink chai and have the same conversation with everybody in turn.
Another 30 mins goes by and still no pump and I ask again "The pump is coming yes?", I get a head wobble and "yes sir, no problem." Am getting a bit restless now as it is getting past 9am and we need to get going.
After another 30 mins I decide to get to the bottom of the situation as the ambiguity of this help I'm getting is beginning to get on my nerves. I brush off another conversation and start pressing about pump and I'm informed there is no pump but I can take a jeep to next town that is about 20km with the wheel, 400rs or I can pay a guy to take wheel to next town for 100rs. Now it is 55rs to the euro so it is not allot of money but on principal I don't like gouging. Eventually a guy joins the onlookers that is a bit more proactive and assures me that I can get to next town and back for 15rs each way no prob in shared jeep, get bike down from hill and bring wheel. Okay, flurry of action and I'm back up the hill. Bringing the bike down is perilous as it is very heavy and the tyre is totally flat.
Back to town where everybody is out and has to come poke the tyre in turn and chat about it. In the mean time I'm miming away that I don't have the tools to blank faces, the heat is coming and sweat is already pouring.
I'm really getting tired of this charade (pun intended) and my frustration is beginning to show.
Eventually my proactive friend comes back and is on the case, with some grunting, turning, sweating, pulling and banging we eventually get the wheel off to a cheer from the whole village.
Into the jeep on its way to Kotdawar and a 40 minute drive to next town, puncture fixed in 20mins and am just about to hope into another jeep on its way back to Kandy when I check my pocket to find my keys are gone. They must have fallen out of my pocket in the jeep that is by now speeding in the opposite direction to where the bike is and no way to contact it, even if the keys are in the jeep or not pocketed or lost along the way.
There have been only 2 times in my life that I have really lost it, this was the 3rd. The locals must have thought me a mad man as I rushed around the town pulling at my hair in a last ditch attempt to find keys in case they fell out in tyre place or at a shop I stopped in. I ask about the jeep and they say it will be back tomorrow. In a mountain village in India with no keys!!!!!! It has been 10 years since I have been so pissed, angry and ashamed, punching and kicking the air and pulling at my hair. Needless to say the 40 minute trip back to Kandy was a long tormented trip with the scenery so nice on the way there just turning my spit to acid in my mouth.
Needless to say the whole town gets a great laugh out of my predicament (at least something good comes from it).
After an attempt to hot wire bike which only manages to blow the fuse with everybody in town taking their turn to offer the same suggestions. At this stage my rage has turned to resignation, I do manage I think to get message to driver of jeep but I get no confirmation on the keys just head wobbles and "yes sir, keys".
Then I have to go break the news to Sue and Ack.
After a few excited Ack's I just get a resigned "ack" with a rise of eye brows and shoulders. Sue is very understanding also as we contemplate the fact that we have to spend another night here till the jeep returns, keeping the hope alive that the jeep driver will turn up with the keys and a big knowing smile at any moment.
As the afternoon turns into evening we have really resigned to the fact that we will be here forever when I hear a distant roar of a familiar Enfield engine. My ears perk up but I think it is just my mind teasing me and we get back to our Sudoku championship. Again I hear an engine so I head out to investigate. At the gate is an Indian on his motorbike and he informs me he has gotten the my bike started! With a click of my heals I hop on the back of his bike and head down the hill.
It turns out he was just passing through with his junior engineer, the locals told him the story and he tried the key of his juniors Honda Hero and it fit! and it turned!! and it started!!! What are the chances of him passing with a key that matches my ignition?!!!! They only catch is that we have to follow him right now to the town we where planning to be at today anyway! So that we can get a key cut. The mind boggles but I don't hang around, straight back up to the bungalow where we pack in record time, found farewell to Ack and we're on the road again. With a cheer from village we're beeping and waving at the locals with the biggest grins on our faces.
The road is like a dream compared to the way up there and we speed along.
As we start our descent on the other side of the mountain the landscape changes to pine forest. Into the evening we drive
passing through the occasional forest fire that burns along the edge of the road. We just keep going though, following our saviours, sometimes loosing site of them in the thick smoke.
As night falls we get to Kotdawar, where our excited saviours hand me a cold beer (I have no idea where they got it), book us into a hotel, bring us to get the puncture fixed (as it has gone flat again) and brings us to dinner (As I have not eaten all day this almost brings tears to my eyes).
It turns out he is a contractor that is responsible for building the roads! Saved by the guy responsible for the roads that punctured my tyre that led me to lose my keys that he just happened to have the exact duplicate of.
It turns out he was just passing through with his junior engineer, the locals told him the story and he tried the key of his juniors Honda Hero and it fit! and it turned!! and it started!!! What are the chances of him passing with a key that matches my ignition?!!!! They only catch is that we have to follow him right now to the town we where planning to be at today anyway! So that we can get a key cut. The mind boggles but I don't hang around, straight back up to the bungalow where we pack in record time, found farewell to Ack and we're on the road again. With a cheer from village we're beeping and waving at the locals with the biggest grins on our faces.
The road is like a dream compared to the way up there and we speed along.
As we start our descent on the other side of the mountain the landscape changes to pine forest. Into the evening we drive
passing through the occasional forest fire that burns along the edge of the road. We just keep going though, following our saviours, sometimes loosing site of them in the thick smoke.
As night falls we get to Kotdawar, where our excited saviours hand me a cold beer (I have no idea where they got it), book us into a hotel, bring us to get the puncture fixed (as it has gone flat again) and brings us to dinner (As I have not eaten all day this almost brings tears to my eyes).
It turns out he is a contractor that is responsible for building the roads! Saved by the guy responsible for the roads that punctured my tyre that led me to lose my keys that he just happened to have the exact duplicate of.
Off to Corbett
To cut a long story short we made it there and back.
Took 3 days to get there and 6 hours to get back but that's India for you.
With the bike all ready to go and a travel companion to put on the back and a plan for the first big road trip under way. After Phool Chatti and getting everything ready (which took longer then planned as always) we hit the road.
Sue on the back and me at the handle bars, we had addressed the map and saw that there was a road pretty much directly to Jim Corbett National Park, a tiger reserve about 300km south of Rishikesh. "Easy" we thought, "no problems!".
We set off about 3pm with plans to stay in a village along the way then be there early the next afternoon.
All was going well, the bike was complaining a little on the hills but I put this down to the engine just getting into the flow.
Then about 25k along the mountain road the surface just seemed to run out and it was replaced by rocks and sand, I kept going regardless. It was hard going, never getting out of second gear. After about 10k of this and it not looking like it was getting any better I had to stop for a rest. There was some workers on the road but they did not understand my questions about the road and just smiled and did the Hindi head wobble, distressed at the idea of going on like this for the next 100k or having to turn back I kicked a few rocks and rubbed my feeling back into my numb arse considering what to do till a truck came by. Luckily there was a guy that had some pigeon English and we worked out that it was only another kilometer or so of this road till it got better.
With feeling just about back in our asses we hit the track again to find about 500 meters on TARMAC!!!! oh the joy. The joy was not to last though as it was only intermittent patch's of tarmac tantalising our buttocks.
The going was a bit better though and as we wound our way along the mountain road I did manage to catch glimpses of the scenery that was really incredible. The road snaked along the top of deep valleys, carved by farmers long ago into steps.
As the sun was setting we found a village the name I cant remember fully but was pronounced "Kandy". It was only a street with about 5 shops. As we rolled in a crowd formed around us. We enquired about a guest house, as the crowd grew there was discussions and curious stares till finally a man with some English joined the crowd. He called to another man whom we had not seen, we turned to greet a man coming up the hill behind us to see what we thought was a wild man or the town lunatic waving his arms wildly and shouting. He was a mute so the only sound coming from him was loud "Acks" and "Nuaags", his eyes where crazed.
I quickly repeated my query about the guest house and it turned out this man was the land lord and it did not seem he was very happy to see us. The other men in the group seemed to placate him after some frantic gesturing and loud "Ack'ing" and told us to head up this little track. With a quick thought as to whether we should trust our sleep to this frantic wild man we headed up the track with no idea where to go or what was waiting for us at the top.
I just kept heading up the track till I could go no further and waited. After a while we heard some frantic "ack'ing" and knew it was the right place. "ACK ACK ACK!!!!!!!!!" waving us to enter the compound impatianly.
The place was a large bungalow with little out houses around it.
"ack, ACK ACK!!!!!" telling to leave bike under one of the eves.
"ACK, NUAG!!!!! ACK ACK ACK!!" with wild gesturing he pulls out a bunch of keys and opens the door to a splendid sort of dining room.
"ACK ACK" a huge bedroom, "Ack!!!!!!" the toilet.
What an amazing place with all mod cons ecept electricity but the peace and quiet of this place on top of a mountain make that just as it should be.
"Ack ACK ACCCK!!!" he tells me as he guides us around the compound.
On closer inspection you see his madness replaced by frustration behind intelligent eyes and as he warms to us the frantic gesturing and wild eyes are replaced by coherent signing and even a flash of a toothless smile.
He advises us to have a bit of a wash and then hit the town for dinner and to remember to get some candles as he hoovers around watching us unpack going about our business. I reckon we are the first guest he has seen for a long time, Indian or westerner.
After settling in we head back down to the town for dinner.
On closer inspection there is no more to the town then we first thought, I do notice a "Wine Shop" and go to investigate a cellar filled with dusty bottles of spirits and warm beer one of which I purchase, my first beer in over a month.
The restaurant is prepped for our arrival, I reckon it was just an empty shop an hour ago where they have placed a table and chairs. No menu is offered, just whether we wanted veg or non veg. Veg it is and I stick my beer in their freezer. The dinner turns out to be a very good Dal and mixed veg with as many chapatis as we can eat. After stuffing ourselves and only managing 2 thirds of the beer we waddle back up the till in the dark only stopping to take in the view over the deep valley with lights dotted along it's dark contours.
Out of the dark comes a "Ack ack, nuag?", "yes dinner was great thanks and goodnight" I reply rubbing my full belly.
Satisfied he ack's and hacks into the night.
The Candles are bearly lit before they are extinguished for sleep.
Sunday, May 20, 2007
Back to it Spidie style
Back in Rishikesh with the noise, beggars, people and difficult decisions about what to have for dinner.
Bring the motorbike to get it's last bits done but as always it takes much longer then I thought it would. Juan, Sue and I are planning a trip to Jim Corbett National park so have to make sure bike is all ready to go. After 2 days of hanging out around mechanics and Alok's shop drinking buckets of Chai the work is done and she is finished. It is not time wasted as I get to know Alok and his family. I also get to be a privileged guest and the evening ceremony on the river bank, where I get to wave around the clensing fires and give offerings to Ganesh in the Ganga.
Spider Man 3 is starting in the local cinema and its an opportunity I don't intend to miss. Going to the cinema is one thing I do miss and from what I hear the Indian cinema experience is not one to be missed.
Juan, Sue and I squeeze onto the bike (Indian style) and off we go.
*A short note on driving in India:
I have been driving around on bike for a couple of days now and I have to say it is really an experience. There are no rules of the road here except one and that is "Right of way goes to the bigger vehicles". You can have no ego driving on these roads. Pedestrian ways are also the high ways for whatever vehicles can fit on them. The only way to get back and forth across the river that divides the area here is by 2 suspension bridges that span the valley (see pictures). Crossing back and forth on these by motorbike is a challenge as they are always full of people, scooters, rickshaws, cows and other motorbikes. The MOST important piece of equipment on the bike is by far the horn and then the brakes.
Drop by Alok's shop for a drink, he produces a bottle of whiskey (very rare here as is a holy city) and I have my first drink in over a month and one is enough.
Then head to cinema. The building is reminiscent of the Classic in Harolds Cross (for those of you that remember - never forget). Buying the treats was an exercise in confusion and patients. For some reason the guy just could not get his head around it, all we wanted was 3 water, 2 popcorn and a packet of crisps. I really have no idea what was so confusing for him but it was like a very complicated game of chess with him taking out and putting back bottles of water and packets of popcorn and handing money back and forth. I'm convinced I made a profit in the end.
The cinema was a sweat box, the seats where covered in that fake leather and it was like those summer drives to the beach in the car before A/C was invented.
The movie was of course in Hindi (I think it was better that way as we could make up our own dialogue and I'm sure it was much better then the movies). The cinema here is more like a cafe with people coming and going constantly, people talking on their mobiles or shouting at the movie. Was great!
Then a cooling trip back on empty roads and bridges.
Bring the motorbike to get it's last bits done but as always it takes much longer then I thought it would. Juan, Sue and I are planning a trip to Jim Corbett National park so have to make sure bike is all ready to go. After 2 days of hanging out around mechanics and Alok's shop drinking buckets of Chai the work is done and she is finished. It is not time wasted as I get to know Alok and his family. I also get to be a privileged guest and the evening ceremony on the river bank, where I get to wave around the clensing fires and give offerings to Ganesh in the Ganga.
Spider Man 3 is starting in the local cinema and its an opportunity I don't intend to miss. Going to the cinema is one thing I do miss and from what I hear the Indian cinema experience is not one to be missed.
Juan, Sue and I squeeze onto the bike (Indian style) and off we go.
*A short note on driving in India:
I have been driving around on bike for a couple of days now and I have to say it is really an experience. There are no rules of the road here except one and that is "Right of way goes to the bigger vehicles". You can have no ego driving on these roads. Pedestrian ways are also the high ways for whatever vehicles can fit on them. The only way to get back and forth across the river that divides the area here is by 2 suspension bridges that span the valley (see pictures). Crossing back and forth on these by motorbike is a challenge as they are always full of people, scooters, rickshaws, cows and other motorbikes. The MOST important piece of equipment on the bike is by far the horn and then the brakes.
Drop by Alok's shop for a drink, he produces a bottle of whiskey (very rare here as is a holy city) and I have my first drink in over a month and one is enough.
Then head to cinema. The building is reminiscent of the Classic in Harolds Cross (for those of you that remember - never forget). Buying the treats was an exercise in confusion and patients. For some reason the guy just could not get his head around it, all we wanted was 3 water, 2 popcorn and a packet of crisps. I really have no idea what was so confusing for him but it was like a very complicated game of chess with him taking out and putting back bottles of water and packets of popcorn and handing money back and forth. I'm convinced I made a profit in the end.
The cinema was a sweat box, the seats where covered in that fake leather and it was like those summer drives to the beach in the car before A/C was invented.
The movie was of course in Hindi (I think it was better that way as we could make up our own dialogue and I'm sure it was much better then the movies). The cinema here is more like a cafe with people coming and going constantly, people talking on their mobiles or shouting at the movie. Was great!
Then a cooling trip back on empty roads and bridges.
Saturday, May 19, 2007
Phool Chatti week
What an amazing, hard, rewarding week it has been. I'm now intimate with my toes and my forehead and knees are getting to know each other well and are become closer everyday, I have found a peace I have never experianced before. I swam in the Ganga pretty much every day. I found a stretch of river about 200 meters long between 2 rapids where there was a strong current and I would walk up to the first rapid and dive in and swim out into the current and just drift along till a place just before the secound rapid. A real privilaged feeling just being carried by the river. There are currents so strong in the water that it feels like a huge animal is brushing against you.
The Ganga is the Holiest river in India. It is considered a temple by the Indians. The story of the Ganga (http://www.uttaranchal.ws/river.htm in brief if your interested) is a lovely story and you can really feel the purity and sanctity of her water. She is my teacher when I'm here and her company I seek out when ever I can. During the days I can swim in her and in the evenings her song fills the air in harmony with the scented wind that cools my greatful brow.
OM Shanti, Shanti, Shanti.
OM Shanti, Shanti, Shanti.
OM Shanti, Shanti, Shanti.
The Ganga is the Holiest river in India. It is considered a temple by the Indians. The story of the Ganga (http://www.uttaranchal.ws/river.htm in brief if your interested) is a lovely story and you can really feel the purity and sanctity of her water. She is my teacher when I'm here and her company I seek out when ever I can. During the days I can swim in her and in the evenings her song fills the air in harmony with the scented wind that cools my greatful brow.
OM Shanti, Shanti, Shanti.
OM Shanti, Shanti, Shanti.
OM Shanti, Shanti, Shanti.
Phool Chatti days
First full day at Phool Chatti.
Day starts at 5.30am. I was the bell ringer for the day so was my responsibility to get everybody up.
6-6.30am Meditation
6.30-7-30 chanting and breathing exercise after a quick cleansing using a little jug style thing that you put up your nostril and pour water into your sinuses till it comes out the other side. Not entirely unpleasant when you get used to it but takes a bit of practise.
7-30-9am Hatha Yoga, a really strong class taught by the venerable Lolita Ji. "Move and Stretch your body", "Breath! no hold you breath". The laughing yoga was great even though she is no stand up comic. By end of class I'm well worked.
9am Breakfast at last. Porridge, bananas, mangoes and honey oh my!
10.30 2 hour meditation walk. Walked to a waterfall near by. The walk was lovely and the waterfall was a really treat at end of a hot hike. There was lovely little pools and caves to paddle in and the cooling cascade was delightful. The waterfall was not a raging torrent but it was was surrounded by moss covered rocks and limestone formations in this jungle. Birds and monkeys going about their business in the trees and butterflies the size of butterflies flew around us. A waterfall like most others but a fresh peaceful place that does make a sound in the jungle even when your not there, has been for millenia and will do so long after we're gone.
12.30 Lunch at last. More great food cooked up by Ram. We file into the dining hall and sit on the ground. The boys come along and serve us rice, Dal or whatever the daily dishes are out of their steal buckets. Coming around topping you up when your dish empties till you have to say "no more, no more!"
4-5.30 Astanga yoga, as the morning but different style and about 30c+ in the room. Lolita Ji working us skillfully just to our limits.
5.30-6 breathing exercises
6-8 discussion and evening prayers (not one for praying so sit this one out)
8 Dinner at last, like lunch but different delicious food.
8.30-9 Meditation to the sound of the river and the gentle wind.
Bed, sleep, darkness to do it all over again everyday for the next week.
Day starts at 5.30am. I was the bell ringer for the day so was my responsibility to get everybody up.
6-6.30am Meditation
6.30-7-30 chanting and breathing exercise after a quick cleansing using a little jug style thing that you put up your nostril and pour water into your sinuses till it comes out the other side. Not entirely unpleasant when you get used to it but takes a bit of practise.
7-30-9am Hatha Yoga, a really strong class taught by the venerable Lolita Ji. "Move and Stretch your body", "Breath! no hold you breath". The laughing yoga was great even though she is no stand up comic. By end of class I'm well worked.
9am Breakfast at last. Porridge, bananas, mangoes and honey oh my!
10.30 2 hour meditation walk. Walked to a waterfall near by. The walk was lovely and the waterfall was a really treat at end of a hot hike. There was lovely little pools and caves to paddle in and the cooling cascade was delightful. The waterfall was not a raging torrent but it was was surrounded by moss covered rocks and limestone formations in this jungle. Birds and monkeys going about their business in the trees and butterflies the size of butterflies flew around us. A waterfall like most others but a fresh peaceful place that does make a sound in the jungle even when your not there, has been for millenia and will do so long after we're gone.
12.30 Lunch at last. More great food cooked up by Ram. We file into the dining hall and sit on the ground. The boys come along and serve us rice, Dal or whatever the daily dishes are out of their steal buckets. Coming around topping you up when your dish empties till you have to say "no more, no more!"
4-5.30 Astanga yoga, as the morning but different style and about 30c+ in the room. Lolita Ji working us skillfully just to our limits.
5.30-6 breathing exercises
6-8 discussion and evening prayers (not one for praying so sit this one out)
8 Dinner at last, like lunch but different delicious food.
8.30-9 Meditation to the sound of the river and the gentle wind.
Bed, sleep, darkness to do it all over again everyday for the next week.
Phool Chatti
Am writing by moon light due to another power cut. They are a daily occurrence (sometimes hourly) so am used to them now.
Got bike and am very happy with her. There is still a few bits and pieces to be done to her but I'm happy.
Alok and Gaurav (the 2 local brothers I bought bike from) have been an absolute pleasure to deal with. They have made sure everything is sorted on it and have been a great help with everything else I needed and kept my belly full of chai and my mind full with conversation. It takes so long to get anything done here that you need friends to keep you from going around the bend. Have not had time to bond with the bike yet but I think it could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship.
Have moved into Phool Chatti ashram with Juan and Carlos ( two guys from Chili I met in cafe) and Sue (an girl from Oz that we met in street) for a week course. A beautiful spot about 6km from Rishikesh, it is on the bank of the Ganga beside a rapid that fill s the air with a soft river song.
The place is really peaceful with mango trees and rose gardens all around. The tree in court yard that has Jasmine growing through it fills the air with a sweet scent. The tree is a hive of activity with all sorts of birds (some only a couple of inches in size with incredible plumage). The Ashrams doves feed around its base with pidgions flirting with them.
Any excuse to take bike for a spin Juan and I head to see if I can find Hari Krishna John to say goodbye as he is leaving soon but I cant find him. Instead I find a snake charmer at the Swiss Cottage. I went over to have a chat with him and he let me handle his female Cobra. She was really beautiful. About 4 foot long, she coiled around my arm and slithered around me, tasting the air with her delicate tongue, she was so soft and gentle I wanted to take her with me.
More bike stuff then back to Phool Chatti just in time for another amazing lightning storm.
Got bike and am very happy with her. There is still a few bits and pieces to be done to her but I'm happy.
Alok and Gaurav (the 2 local brothers I bought bike from) have been an absolute pleasure to deal with. They have made sure everything is sorted on it and have been a great help with everything else I needed and kept my belly full of chai and my mind full with conversation. It takes so long to get anything done here that you need friends to keep you from going around the bend. Have not had time to bond with the bike yet but I think it could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship.
Have moved into Phool Chatti ashram with Juan and Carlos ( two guys from Chili I met in cafe) and Sue (an girl from Oz that we met in street) for a week course. A beautiful spot about 6km from Rishikesh, it is on the bank of the Ganga beside a rapid that fill s the air with a soft river song.
The place is really peaceful with mango trees and rose gardens all around. The tree in court yard that has Jasmine growing through it fills the air with a sweet scent. The tree is a hive of activity with all sorts of birds (some only a couple of inches in size with incredible plumage). The Ashrams doves feed around its base with pidgions flirting with them.
Any excuse to take bike for a spin Juan and I head to see if I can find Hari Krishna John to say goodbye as he is leaving soon but I cant find him. Instead I find a snake charmer at the Swiss Cottage. I went over to have a chat with him and he let me handle his female Cobra. She was really beautiful. About 4 foot long, she coiled around my arm and slithered around me, tasting the air with her delicate tongue, she was so soft and gentle I wanted to take her with me.
More bike stuff then back to Phool Chatti just in time for another amazing lightning storm.
Busy busy
Yesterday:
Yoga twice, morning and evening.
Hired scooter, booked into Phool Chatti Ashram, test drove 2 motorbikes.
Satisfying day all round.
Today:
Did my first proper full hour of mediation at Yoga Nikitan. It was in an underground room. The walls are lined with doors into "Meditation Caves".
The room was dark and cool as the yogi entered and sat at front of room. With only a few words guidance and a couple of breathing exercises it all began. Sitting in silence in his presence in that room my mind sored and I went on a journey like I have never experienced before. I could see myself walking through a door into bright light and off on a wonderful trip. The hour flew by.
When we came out of the room what had been a lovely bright morning had turned almost into night and the heavens where emptying with lightning and thunder splitting the sky.
Took another motorbike for a good test run but it clapped out on me. It turned out to work in my favour as I happened to meet Gaurav. A local shop merchant. His brother just happens to be selling an Enfield. Worn out from trying to get the one I was test driving to start I tell him to send his brother to meet me at a restaurant near by. After a refreshing lunch Alok turns up and I take bike for a run. Bit of haggling and he has a sale.
Yoga twice, morning and evening.
Hired scooter, booked into Phool Chatti Ashram, test drove 2 motorbikes.
Satisfying day all round.
Today:
Did my first proper full hour of mediation at Yoga Nikitan. It was in an underground room. The walls are lined with doors into "Meditation Caves".
The room was dark and cool as the yogi entered and sat at front of room. With only a few words guidance and a couple of breathing exercises it all began. Sitting in silence in his presence in that room my mind sored and I went on a journey like I have never experienced before. I could see myself walking through a door into bright light and off on a wonderful trip. The hour flew by.
When we came out of the room what had been a lovely bright morning had turned almost into night and the heavens where emptying with lightning and thunder splitting the sky.
Took another motorbike for a good test run but it clapped out on me. It turned out to work in my favour as I happened to meet Gaurav. A local shop merchant. His brother just happens to be selling an Enfield. Worn out from trying to get the one I was test driving to start I tell him to send his brother to meet me at a restaurant near by. After a refreshing lunch Alok turns up and I take bike for a run. Bit of haggling and he has a sale.
Beatles Ashram
Approx 200 meters from the ashram I'm staying at is the whats referred to the "Beatles's Ashram" where they stayed with the Maharishi Mahesh in 1968. It is derelict now. The boys stayed there for a couple of months where they wrote most of the "White Album" but the Maharishi Mahesh's constant demands for money and his attitude to the women of the group eventually drove them away.- "The Beatles song Sexy Sadie was originally called Maharishi, Maharishi, What Have You Done? John Lennon wrote the song after becoming disillusioned when the maharishi allegedly made a pass at the actor Mia Farrow at his Indian ashram, but Lennon later changed the title at George Harrison's instigation. The lyrics read: "Sexy Sadie what have you done/You made a fool of everyone.""- http://www.guardian.co.uk/medicine/story/0,11381,1549269,00.html
Bogey yogi is the phrase I believe.
The place is impressive though, when you get to the gate it stirs some iconic imagery that I would associate with that era.
The gates are chained but a man comes to them from inside somewhere and we bribe him with 20rs each to let us in.
The atmosphere is really still, fires of dry leaves at the outer walls send smoke drifting through the morning air giving everything a ethereal feel.
A rare thing in India is that it is quiet here, no traffic or shouting, just a few stoned holy men hanging around the outer grounds. You can still feel the tranquility of the 60s.
Stone domiciles based on a spiral design with little meditation rooms the shape off eggs on top of them line the lanes up to a little village of them. Anyone one of these John Lennon could have sat meditating, writing, gotten high or fooled around in, probably all of them.
It must have been a lovely place back then with beautiful gardens and shady alcoves to sit in.
As I sit meditating in what must have been the central gathering point, I try to send my mind back to what it must have been like there and what the Beatles's where achieving by being there. It must have been such an amazing time to be part of.
Bogey yogi is the phrase I believe.
The place is impressive though, when you get to the gate it stirs some iconic imagery that I would associate with that era.
The gates are chained but a man comes to them from inside somewhere and we bribe him with 20rs each to let us in.
The atmosphere is really still, fires of dry leaves at the outer walls send smoke drifting through the morning air giving everything a ethereal feel.
A rare thing in India is that it is quiet here, no traffic or shouting, just a few stoned holy men hanging around the outer grounds. You can still feel the tranquility of the 60s.
Stone domiciles based on a spiral design with little meditation rooms the shape off eggs on top of them line the lanes up to a little village of them. Anyone one of these John Lennon could have sat meditating, writing, gotten high or fooled around in, probably all of them.
It must have been a lovely place back then with beautiful gardens and shady alcoves to sit in.
As I sit meditating in what must have been the central gathering point, I try to send my mind back to what it must have been like there and what the Beatles's where achieving by being there. It must have been such an amazing time to be part of.
Sunday, May 6, 2007
Mussoorie
After a day off of just lounging around and haggling over a motorbike I keep talking myself in and out of buying Simone 2 and I have decided on another road trip to a town called Mussoorie.
Hitting the road at 6am its to Dahra Dhun and then another bus to Mussoorie.
One of the first mountain stations built by the British in 18....... It is 2000 meters above sea level. Dahra Dhun is only at 700m. The 1300m is traversed by a road that snakes into the mountain for what seems like eternity but the town and the views make the trip really worth while.
The air at this altitude is light and fresh that it makes breathing shear pleasure.
Way back when, this place was very popular with the "Raj set" and you still get that feel from it. With it's little amusement arcades and restaurants everywhere. There is even a cinema (long closed) that gives the place a really nice Bray (in the old days) feel to it.
Then back down the mountain with break neck turns in a bus with a filling loosening horn that he really over uses. Negotiate the seemingly ever changing and over complex public transport and home to Rishikesh.
Hitting the road at 6am its to Dahra Dhun and then another bus to Mussoorie.
One of the first mountain stations built by the British in 18....... It is 2000 meters above sea level. Dahra Dhun is only at 700m. The 1300m is traversed by a road that snakes into the mountain for what seems like eternity but the town and the views make the trip really worth while.
The air at this altitude is light and fresh that it makes breathing shear pleasure.
Way back when, this place was very popular with the "Raj set" and you still get that feel from it. With it's little amusement arcades and restaurants everywhere. There is even a cinema (long closed) that gives the place a really nice Bray (in the old days) feel to it.
Then back down the mountain with break neck turns in a bus with a filling loosening horn that he really over uses. Negotiate the seemingly ever changing and over complex public transport and home to Rishikesh.
Holy Hardiwar
Went into Hardiwar again. Simone was heading off too wherever and so with another Simone she had picked up we all headed into town for a look around.
Got to have a much better look around this time. A bustling noisy city (as are all in India I'm told) with a great market area that seems to just go on and on.
The shear volume of life here still amazes me.
After Simone 1 booked her bus and dropped off bag we took a cable car to a temple that looks out of the city.
The Temple is a cross between a fun park and a sort of spiritual super market. Queuing up through the styles and the the multitude of holy men offering blessings for donations, their eyes slightly glazed over. Choose your man, get your blessing and move on, cant hold up the que! Then file past all the shrines lit up like exhibits at the wax museum and the ride is over. But as even at the smallest of fun houses fun is had I do feel my spirit lifted.
Back down the cable car after being ring side to a bloody battle between an India family and 2 monkeys (Both sides having casualties) to the torrent of the street.
My belly is back to full strength and is rumbling so I venture into a street cafe and order what ever it is they're serving. A delicious bean stew thing with a mint tasting dip thingy soaked up with a sort of puffed fried bread all topped off by a tasty watery soup of some kind, very very tasty.
After found farewells to Simon 1, Simone 2 and I head off to explore more of the city. Down by the river bank there is a sort of temple area where there are lots of families hanging out, bathing and playing in the current. Everybody is in good spirits and the children play around us. Then wave down the local bus for another bone rattling hour journey back to Rishikesh in these fantastic sweat boxes.
Exhausted its to bed by 8pm
Got to have a much better look around this time. A bustling noisy city (as are all in India I'm told) with a great market area that seems to just go on and on.
The shear volume of life here still amazes me.
After Simone 1 booked her bus and dropped off bag we took a cable car to a temple that looks out of the city.
The Temple is a cross between a fun park and a sort of spiritual super market. Queuing up through the styles and the the multitude of holy men offering blessings for donations, their eyes slightly glazed over. Choose your man, get your blessing and move on, cant hold up the que! Then file past all the shrines lit up like exhibits at the wax museum and the ride is over. But as even at the smallest of fun houses fun is had I do feel my spirit lifted.
Back down the cable car after being ring side to a bloody battle between an India family and 2 monkeys (Both sides having casualties) to the torrent of the street.
My belly is back to full strength and is rumbling so I venture into a street cafe and order what ever it is they're serving. A delicious bean stew thing with a mint tasting dip thingy soaked up with a sort of puffed fried bread all topped off by a tasty watery soup of some kind, very very tasty.
After found farewells to Simon 1, Simone 2 and I head off to explore more of the city. Down by the river bank there is a sort of temple area where there are lots of families hanging out, bathing and playing in the current. Everybody is in good spirits and the children play around us. Then wave down the local bus for another bone rattling hour journey back to Rishikesh in these fantastic sweat boxes.
Exhausted its to bed by 8pm
Ah..... Rishikesh
It really is a lovely place here, it is pretty much hassle free.
My neighbor John is an ex Hari Krishna in his 50's from Canada. Every Morning at about 4 or 5 am he starts chanting, the vibrations come through the wall filling my room with an other worldly sound.
He is a great sole that really gets off on being "out there". Every second word is "bro" and he is a pleasure to hang out with as he works through his 2 liters of water he collects from the Ganga every day we talk life.
"You gotta hang onto your seed bro" he tells me as the conversation turns to girls as it always does when two men get chatting.
Every day I go for a swim in the Ganga. The water is so good, any heat stress or stomach pains just drift away with the current.
Everybody is very open and friendly so you are never alone here, in all the cafes everybody just talks to everybody.
The Luxman Jula area is for the tourists and there are allot of Israels here, they all get out of the army and then just head out hear, is them same story with pretty much all of them.
Yesterday I went for mt daily swim and I find John in the usual spot to find that only 10 minutes ago an Indian guy had just drowned. Usual story, there was a group of them and they had been drinking, 3 went in, John managed to rescue 2 of them but the 3rd was taken by the tumultuous current. The river gets very deep very quickly and the current is very strong also these guys can not swim at all. John is a bit shook up but I tell him "you did your best bro!". Is the 5th drowning this month. Another hopeless life taken by the Ganga to be reborn into something better hopefully. 40,000 births a day in India with a population of 1 billion people, I don't feel much for him.
Moved to Swarg Ashram, an area on the other side of the river form Luxman Jula. It is a real India place and the Indian tourist out number the westerners greatly. It has a very different vibe. It is based around a very big old ashram that only seems to have locals staying there. Every evening they have a big ceremony on the banks of the river. The Ba Ba singing mantras and performing the ritual, all around him his followers stand and sing, fires passing through the crowd for people to cleans themselves with. As I stand among them I'm really moved by the emotion and devotion. The tourist with their video cameras makes me feel guilty of being a westerner though.
Swarg Ashram is about 3Km from Luxman Jula and the walk is a very pleasant one along the river bank. Bodhi trees line the lane cooling the air. About half way there is a tea stand that makes some of the best chay I've tasted yet.
All around the main areas holy men line the sides, all their worldly belongings, a tin pale, a stick and the cloths on their backs mildly beg.
Had a shave and a hair cut today in one of the many street barbers. After the shave and cut all of a sudden it was if I was in a wrestling match. The old dude with strength beyond his body size has me in all kind of half and full nelsons, slapping me, working my shoulders and head, it was fantastic then onto a cafe for more chay and conversation.
My neighbor John is an ex Hari Krishna in his 50's from Canada. Every Morning at about 4 or 5 am he starts chanting, the vibrations come through the wall filling my room with an other worldly sound.
He is a great sole that really gets off on being "out there". Every second word is "bro" and he is a pleasure to hang out with as he works through his 2 liters of water he collects from the Ganga every day we talk life.
"You gotta hang onto your seed bro" he tells me as the conversation turns to girls as it always does when two men get chatting.
Every day I go for a swim in the Ganga. The water is so good, any heat stress or stomach pains just drift away with the current.
Everybody is very open and friendly so you are never alone here, in all the cafes everybody just talks to everybody.
The Luxman Jula area is for the tourists and there are allot of Israels here, they all get out of the army and then just head out hear, is them same story with pretty much all of them.
Yesterday I went for mt daily swim and I find John in the usual spot to find that only 10 minutes ago an Indian guy had just drowned. Usual story, there was a group of them and they had been drinking, 3 went in, John managed to rescue 2 of them but the 3rd was taken by the tumultuous current. The river gets very deep very quickly and the current is very strong also these guys can not swim at all. John is a bit shook up but I tell him "you did your best bro!". Is the 5th drowning this month. Another hopeless life taken by the Ganga to be reborn into something better hopefully. 40,000 births a day in India with a population of 1 billion people, I don't feel much for him.
Moved to Swarg Ashram, an area on the other side of the river form Luxman Jula. It is a real India place and the Indian tourist out number the westerners greatly. It has a very different vibe. It is based around a very big old ashram that only seems to have locals staying there. Every evening they have a big ceremony on the banks of the river. The Ba Ba singing mantras and performing the ritual, all around him his followers stand and sing, fires passing through the crowd for people to cleans themselves with. As I stand among them I'm really moved by the emotion and devotion. The tourist with their video cameras makes me feel guilty of being a westerner though.
Swarg Ashram is about 3Km from Luxman Jula and the walk is a very pleasant one along the river bank. Bodhi trees line the lane cooling the air. About half way there is a tea stand that makes some of the best chay I've tasted yet.
All around the main areas holy men line the sides, all their worldly belongings, a tin pale, a stick and the cloths on their backs mildly beg.
Had a shave and a hair cut today in one of the many street barbers. After the shave and cut all of a sudden it was if I was in a wrestling match. The old dude with strength beyond his body size has me in all kind of half and full nelsons, slapping me, working my shoulders and head, it was fantastic then onto a cafe for more chay and conversation.
Tuesday, May 1, 2007
Free at last!
Am outta that Ashram. Still feeling pretty sick but I think a change of air is needed and I'm off to Rishikesh. Travel here is real easy as long as you can handle the local bus. It is a great way to Travel and dirt cheap also. The rip is a bumpy one but I just so happy to be on he road again (even if my poor swollen arse feels like its going to pop after each bump in the road)
Rishikesh is a beautiful town in a valley on he Ganga, pull into the Swiss Cottage which is a lovely place at the with views of the whole valley and a cafe that serves western food, thank god!!!
I manage a veg sou and already I fell so much better.
Sleep and rest in this fresh new air is all I want.
Rishikesh is a beautiful town in a valley on he Ganga, pull into the Swiss Cottage which is a lovely place at the with views of the whole valley and a cafe that serves western food, thank god!!!
I manage a veg sou and already I fell so much better.
Sleep and rest in this fresh new air is all I want.
Children's Ashram
Visited an ashram for children of leprosy patients from around India.
A peaceful place set back in a jungle of a nature reserve near where we're staying. I'm assured there are lions, tigers and elephants roaming around but I did not see any.
The place is so peaceful that you can not help but become quiet and conversation is stilted and low.
Normally there are 200+ children here but not at the moment. They are back with heir family on he streets of which ever city they come from. There are about 40 full time children here, mostly orphans or ones that work here. I really is an oasis of tranquility with neatly ended flowers growing everywhere. The whole place is built on a narrow stretch of farm land and all around farmers work their little patches.
On the way back we stop by the treatment center for some local leprosy patients and we pass through the "leper slum". It all seems peaceful enough and they have a little village of sorts.
It really is another world from a long time ago, I feel like I'm in a Josh Conrad book as I wander about the compound.
Then off bank to the safety and cleanliness of the ashram.
A peaceful place set back in a jungle of a nature reserve near where we're staying. I'm assured there are lions, tigers and elephants roaming around but I did not see any.
The place is so peaceful that you can not help but become quiet and conversation is stilted and low.
Normally there are 200+ children here but not at the moment. They are back with heir family on he streets of which ever city they come from. There are about 40 full time children here, mostly orphans or ones that work here. I really is an oasis of tranquility with neatly ended flowers growing everywhere. The whole place is built on a narrow stretch of farm land and all around farmers work their little patches.
On the way back we stop by the treatment center for some local leprosy patients and we pass through the "leper slum". It all seems peaceful enough and they have a little village of sorts.
It really is another world from a long time ago, I feel like I'm in a Josh Conrad book as I wander about the compound.
Then off bank to the safety and cleanliness of the ashram.
From my 3rd eye to my Brown eye
All was going so well, I was getting into the flow and really relaxing into the ashram. Meditating and was purifying my myself. But then BAM!!!!! Delhi Belly!
Oh god the pain!!!!!! Have never been this cleaned out before!!!!!
Send the next 3 days never far from the toilet and eating nothing but rice and lassie.
Oh god the pain!!!!!! Have never been this cleaned out before!!!!!
Send the next 3 days never far from the toilet and eating nothing but rice and lassie.
Monday, April 30, 2007
Ashram
Been in the ashram for the last 3 days and I have had some highs and some lows.
It is a fine place, really clean and everybody is very friendly but it is really too much like a hospital and there are a lot of sick people, the general vibe also reminds me too much of the hospis that Pop's shook of of his mortal coil. Allot of the sickies re cancer patients and the place begins to come in on me a bit.
Simone and I are the only whites here and it is amazing their reactions to us. The Indians have no idea of personal space so they just come up to you and stare, the expressions on theirs face are so that I have to check if I have a second head.
Today I'm really feeling claustrophobic so I head for a walk, passing huge bushels of wild ganja as I stroll along the road really feeling like I need to get away.
I head back to the place and just sit in the yoga area and a family comes up to me, I pose with them for a photo and we sign to each other, the Indian are really such a sweet people.
As the Sheeshaw was the national pastime in Egypt, conversation is the national pastime here. "Where do you come from?", "what do you do?", "are you married?' are the usual openers.
When the family moves on I head across the campus and I bump into one of the teachers and he invite me to his office for some conversation. He has a dairy full of conversational phrases that you can tell he has painstakingly collected over the past years.
We pass the time talking only stopping for him to flip through his dairy.
"What do you want to be?"
"How many in you family?"
"Give my regards to your mother"
His name is Visnod and we talk for a good while, laughing and learning.
After this its back to the room feeling much better about myself and the place and get to relaxing in.
It is a fine place, really clean and everybody is very friendly but it is really too much like a hospital and there are a lot of sick people, the general vibe also reminds me too much of the hospis that Pop's shook of of his mortal coil. Allot of the sickies re cancer patients and the place begins to come in on me a bit.
Simone and I are the only whites here and it is amazing their reactions to us. The Indians have no idea of personal space so they just come up to you and stare, the expressions on theirs face are so that I have to check if I have a second head.
Today I'm really feeling claustrophobic so I head for a walk, passing huge bushels of wild ganja as I stroll along the road really feeling like I need to get away.
I head back to the place and just sit in the yoga area and a family comes up to me, I pose with them for a photo and we sign to each other, the Indian are really such a sweet people.
As the Sheeshaw was the national pastime in Egypt, conversation is the national pastime here. "Where do you come from?", "what do you do?", "are you married?' are the usual openers.
When the family moves on I head across the campus and I bump into one of the teachers and he invite me to his office for some conversation. He has a dairy full of conversational phrases that you can tell he has painstakingly collected over the past years.
We pass the time talking only stopping for him to flip through his dairy.
"What do you want to be?"
"How many in you family?"
"Give my regards to your mother"
His name is Visnod and we talk for a good while, laughing and learning.
After this its back to the room feeling much better about myself and the place and get to relaxing in.
Hardiwar
Head into Hardiwar for a couple of hours, Simone whom has been traveling India for 5 months now is experience on the local bus and off we go. The local bus is real India and is an experience. The rules of the road is that the largest has right of way and the driving is just frantic.
Hardiwar is a holy city and is a frenzy of life and noise.
We wander around the town taking it in and then to the banks of Mother Ganga for the evening ritual. The light is really remarkable here. The dust in the air gives everything a real soft dreamy effect filtering the light into soft pinks and reds.
There are holy men everywhere. As I was crossing the river this one holy man was meandering past and our eyes just happened to meet. I have never been greeted with such softness, grace and gentle joy before and for a moment the world disappears and then it is past.
While on the banks I put my feet into the water for he first time. It is cool and refreshing. The water feels like the softest of animals brushing against me as a cat does. It is alive and of far greater wisdom the I could ever imagine.
Hardiwar is a holy city and is a frenzy of life and noise.
We wander around the town taking it in and then to the banks of Mother Ganga for the evening ritual. The light is really remarkable here. The dust in the air gives everything a real soft dreamy effect filtering the light into soft pinks and reds.
There are holy men everywhere. As I was crossing the river this one holy man was meandering past and our eyes just happened to meet. I have never been greeted with such softness, grace and gentle joy before and for a moment the world disappears and then it is past.
While on the banks I put my feet into the water for he first time. It is cool and refreshing. The water feels like the softest of animals brushing against me as a cat does. It is alive and of far greater wisdom the I could ever imagine.
Sunday, April 29, 2007
India Day 3
6.55 train to Hadiwar. The train system here is great, really easy to navigate at the service is bang on time. There is even refreshments served.
I have the window seat so i can take in the country as we pass. The country is very fertile and flat, perfect for all the little farms that seem to go on for ever. At every level crossing there are hundreds of people at the gates in every type of transport ever imaginable waiting at the gates.
Beside me is a very nice lady called Veena that is of Indian origin but when I ask which part of India I'm informed California where she is retired and her husband runs the family Subway sandwich shop and next to her Simone and Swiss girl traveling for the last 5 months. Instantly Veena adopts us and before we know it we have all decided to go to a ashram outside Hadiwar.
The trip form the train station is a perilous one as the traffic even out in the sticks is manic but the rickshaw is skillfully handled and we whizz past buses, trucks, cows, motorcycles with full families on them with lots of close calls but no actual collisions. All along the side of the road is full of bushes of wild hemp and the air is full of the smell.
The ashram is a big complex that is really more of a hospital but I decide what the hell and give it a go as it is a lovely area and very clean with lush gardens and the room is bigger then some apartments I have lived in.
I have the window seat so i can take in the country as we pass. The country is very fertile and flat, perfect for all the little farms that seem to go on for ever. At every level crossing there are hundreds of people at the gates in every type of transport ever imaginable waiting at the gates.
Beside me is a very nice lady called Veena that is of Indian origin but when I ask which part of India I'm informed California where she is retired and her husband runs the family Subway sandwich shop and next to her Simone and Swiss girl traveling for the last 5 months. Instantly Veena adopts us and before we know it we have all decided to go to a ashram outside Hadiwar.
The trip form the train station is a perilous one as the traffic even out in the sticks is manic but the rickshaw is skillfully handled and we whizz past buses, trucks, cows, motorcycles with full families on them with lots of close calls but no actual collisions. All along the side of the road is full of bushes of wild hemp and the air is full of the smell.
The ashram is a big complex that is really more of a hospital but I decide what the hell and give it a go as it is a lovely area and very clean with lush gardens and the room is bigger then some apartments I have lived in.
Holy Cow!
John come over to me at 8.30 and off we go to train station where I pick up a ticket for next day to Hadiwar, no three day wait, no 3000 rs.
I book in the Shelton the the real Main Bazaar that is not full after all and even though it is one of the more expensive hotels in Pahagranj is still only half price of place I stayed last night.
I say my goodbyes to John, refusing a tip he gives me a big hug and I know I have a real friend in Delhi.
After dropping bag I head out to take in the streets.
How to describe Delhi! First of all the thing that hits you is just the incredible amount of people and noise, then there is the smell that is not all that unpleasant, it is a mix of spice and cow shite but in some places urine which is not ever nice. I think it is impossible to exaggerate about this place as it really is just fantastic! My senses are totally over loaded. It is very difficult to write about because just taking a few steps would fill a book.
These narrow streets filled with auto rickshaws whizzing about, people milling to and fro and everywhere people calling after you and then just when you think you have seen it all I turn a corner to come face to face with an elephant. The is barley enough room in these streets to get a car down but an elephant! There are people people driving it. They do not seem to be doing it for money it just as if they have come into town for a spot of shopping.
There are beggars everywhere with all different kinds of ailments, withered legs being the most common. Young boys dragging themselves along the ground banging their tin cups.
As the heat reaches the mid 40s there is nothing I can do but head back to hotel and sweat. The heat is nothing like I have ever felt before, everything is roasting. When I take my water out of my bag its like drinking milky tea and my key feels like it is burning my hand when I open the door.
The food is great though but as I munch on a bit of curry in a cafe and watch the passing chaos i really cant wait to get out of this claustrophobic scene.
I book in the Shelton the the real Main Bazaar that is not full after all and even though it is one of the more expensive hotels in Pahagranj is still only half price of place I stayed last night.
I say my goodbyes to John, refusing a tip he gives me a big hug and I know I have a real friend in Delhi.
After dropping bag I head out to take in the streets.
How to describe Delhi! First of all the thing that hits you is just the incredible amount of people and noise, then there is the smell that is not all that unpleasant, it is a mix of spice and cow shite but in some places urine which is not ever nice. I think it is impossible to exaggerate about this place as it really is just fantastic! My senses are totally over loaded. It is very difficult to write about because just taking a few steps would fill a book.
These narrow streets filled with auto rickshaws whizzing about, people milling to and fro and everywhere people calling after you and then just when you think you have seen it all I turn a corner to come face to face with an elephant. The is barley enough room in these streets to get a car down but an elephant! There are people people driving it. They do not seem to be doing it for money it just as if they have come into town for a spot of shopping.
There are beggars everywhere with all different kinds of ailments, withered legs being the most common. Young boys dragging themselves along the ground banging their tin cups.
As the heat reaches the mid 40s there is nothing I can do but head back to hotel and sweat. The heat is nothing like I have ever felt before, everything is roasting. When I take my water out of my bag its like drinking milky tea and my key feels like it is burning my hand when I open the door.
The food is great though but as I munch on a bit of curry in a cafe and watch the passing chaos i really cant wait to get out of this claustrophobic scene.
Delhi Delhi Delhi
To cut a long story short I made it there alive. The flight was really easy, Etihad are prob the best airline I have ever flown with and the flight was trip was over in just 6 hours. As I was flying into Delhi my stomach was doing flips and I was perched on the edge of my seat with my nose stuck to the window and beads of sweat forming on my brow. The stewardess was eyeing me nervously. As we land the pilot informs us that it is a sunny 43 degrees in New Delhi and I have to draw on all my breathing exorcises to calm myself. Leaving customs I stop again and really have to focus and step out expecting to be torn apart by touters and thief's but the place is the picture of tranquility. I go by advice and get a government taxi and as I wait, tense waiting for throngs of people to come running at me any minute but all that come is my taxi and off we go. It is all going too easy and even though we are casually cruising through the Delhi burbs with wild hemp growing all along the road and people gently selling their wares I am still on the edge of my saet waiting for it all to hit. My destination is Pahagranj which is the backpacker center of town and is right next to train station, a famous place known by everyone, everyone accept my driver it would seem and he has to stop at "Tourist Office" to ask directions. So before I know whats happening I'm seating in a tourist office with a smiling man in front of me and no idea where I am. As far as I'm told the Main Bazaar of Pahagranj is just around the corner but I have to book hotel first with him. After calling a few hotels from my guide book that are all full the penny begins to drop and I remember the warning in my book of shady travel agents and I realise I have been hit with scams 1, 2 and 3 already. The Big scam is that they ring hotel but they really ring people in his little cartel that are in on the plot to get me to go to a hotel of their choosing and pay stupid money, one of them even imitates the train station and tells me there are no trains for 3 days. They even take it to the point that they drive me around what they tell me is Main Bazaar and bring into all the hotels there where I'm told that they are all full, So after a couple of hours of this and with hunger and exhaustion from the over night flight with no sleep I eventually give in and book room for one night and luckily it is a clean room. After checking in and dropping off bag I head straight the door with the conviction that I'm going to get to the bottom of this and find out what is going on and where I am. I discover that I'm actually about 3Km from the real Main Bazaar and I decide to hope in Rickshaw and go take alook so I can get my bearings. The tour office sends a young guy with me to guide me and give the run around I suppose. I decide the train station is a good land mark that would be hard for them to fake and firmly put my focus on getting there. I request John to tell driver to go there and off we go. He trys to direct to me here and there saying " why not go here or there" but I just keep repeating "train station, train station, train station". After passing the same block for the third time I start getting a little angry and "train station" is turning into "just bring to the TRAIN STATION!!!!!!!" and John is begging to look a little scared and out of his depth with his client but he trys to hang in there till I really begin to loose it and he decides to try and pawn me off on another tourist office but I hold firm and and my directions are begging to get violent and eventually a very scared john leads rickshaw to an area I have not seen before and then looms the sign for New Delhi Train Station and I loosen my grip little on john's throat. Into the station with purpose and a good feeling at last.After finding my way I can eventually take in Delhi a bit and this city is just chaos, the noise and people everywhere in just frantic.Poor John is still following me. He is worn out and looks very worried as he rubs his wounds, I assure him that I will not let his boss know that he actually took me to station after all and that his secret is safe with me and he lightens up a bit. I offer to bring him for dinner to compensate for almost throttling him and we head down the real Main Bazaar that is a maze of streets, with all little stalls and people milling around. Cows wonder around completely unfazed. After a lovely dinner on a roof top where John and I chat and get to know each other over the din that is constantly coming from the street below its back to the hotel and after over 30 hours of no sleep its blackness.
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