Off to Corbett

To cut a long story short we made it there and back.

Took 3 days to get there and 6 hours to get back but that's India for you.

With the bike all ready to go and a travel companion to put on the back and a plan for the first big road trip under way. After Phool Chatti and getting everything ready (which took longer then planned as always) we hit the road.

Sue on the back and me at the handle bars, we had addressed the map and saw that there was a road pretty much directly to Jim Corbett National Park, a tiger reserve about 300km south of Rishikesh. "Easy" we thought, "no problems!".

We set off about 3pm with plans to stay in a village along the way then be there early the next afternoon.

All was going well, the bike was complaining a little on the hills but I put this down to the engine just getting into the flow.

Then about 25k along the mountain road the surface just seemed to run out and it was replaced by rocks and sand, I kept going regardless. It was hard going, never getting out of second gear. After about 10k of this and it not looking like it was getting any better I had to stop for a rest. There was some workers on the road but they did not understand my questions about the road and just smiled and did the Hindi head wobble, distressed at the idea of going on like this for the next 100k or having to turn back I kicked a few rocks and rubbed my feeling back into my numb arse considering what to do till a truck came by. Luckily there was a guy that had some pigeon English and we worked out that it was only another kilometer or so of this road till it got better.

With feeling just about back in our asses we hit the track again to find about 500 meters on TARMAC!!!! oh the joy. The joy was not to last though as it was only intermittent patch's of tarmac tantalising our buttocks.

The going was a bit better though and as we wound our way along the mountain road I did manage to catch glimpses of the scenery that was really incredible. The road snaked along the top of deep valleys, carved by farmers long ago into steps.

As the sun was setting we found a village the name I cant remember fully but was pronounced "Kandy". It was only a street with about 5 shops. As we rolled in a crowd formed around us. We enquired about a guest house, as the crowd grew there was discussions and curious stares till finally a man with some English joined the crowd. He called to another man whom we had not seen, we turned to greet a man coming up the hill behind us to see what we thought was a wild man or the town lunatic waving his arms wildly and shouting. He was a mute so the only sound coming from him was loud "Acks" and "Nuaags", his eyes where crazed.

I quickly repeated my query about the guest house and it turned out this man was the land lord and it did not seem he was very happy to see us. The other men in the group seemed to placate him after some frantic gesturing and loud "Ack'ing" and told us to head up this little track. With a quick thought as to whether we should trust our sleep to this frantic wild man we headed up the track with no idea where to go or what was waiting for us at the top.

I just kept heading up the track till I could go no further and waited. After a while we heard some frantic "ack'ing" and knew it was the right place. "ACK ACK ACK!!!!!!!!!" waving us to enter the compound impatianly.

The place was a large bungalow with little out houses around it.

"ack, ACK ACK!!!!!" telling to leave bike under one of the eves.

"ACK, NUAG!!!!! ACK ACK ACK!!" with wild gesturing he pulls out a bunch of keys and opens the door to a splendid sort of dining room.

"ACK ACK" a huge bedroom, "Ack!!!!!!" the toilet.

What an amazing place with all mod cons ecept electricity but the peace and quiet of this place on top of a mountain make that just as it should be.

"Ack ACK ACCCK!!!" he tells me as he guides us around the compound.

On closer inspection you see his madness replaced by frustration behind intelligent eyes and as he warms to us the frantic gesturing and wild eyes are replaced by coherent signing and even a flash of a toothless smile.

He advises us to have a bit of a wash and then hit the town for dinner and to remember to get some candles as he hoovers around watching us unpack going about our business. I reckon we are the first guest he has seen for a long time, Indian or westerner.

After settling in we head back down to the town for dinner.

On closer inspection there is no more to the town then we first thought, I do notice a "Wine Shop" and go to investigate a cellar filled with dusty bottles of spirits and warm beer one of which I purchase, my first beer in over a month.

The restaurant is prepped for our arrival, I reckon it was just an empty shop an hour ago where they have placed a table and chairs. No menu is offered, just whether we wanted veg or non veg. Veg it is and I stick my beer in their freezer. The dinner turns out to be a very good Dal and mixed veg with as many chapatis as we can eat. After stuffing ourselves and only managing 2 thirds of the beer we waddle back up the till in the dark only stopping to take in the view over the deep valley with lights dotted along it's dark contours.

Out of the dark comes a "Ack ack, nuag?", "yes dinner was great thanks and goodnight" I reply rubbing my full belly.

Satisfied he ack's and hacks into the night.

The Candles are bearly lit before they are extinguished for sleep.