Am up at 5am packed and on the road at 5.30. This time we take the main road.
These roads are better then some of the national roads at home and we make good time. My mantra I keep repeating to myself is "keep us cool and keep us safe" and thank you to whom ever was listening as the day turned out to be a cool day promising rain but just keeping it at bay.
The traffic is crazy. As I have mentioned before the only rule is the larger machine gets right of way. The TATA's (the big trucks used for hauling) are kings of the road and you just have to get out of their way. Going around a corner and all of a sudden your facing two TATAs, one overtaking the other coming straight for you and all you can do is hit the brakes and pull off the road. It is challenging but rewarding too. It is great to stop at the small towns. When we stop for a break within minutes there is a crowd formed to just stare at us sitting drinking tea. At one town we lost count at 45 people. You just get used to it though and it does make you feel sort of special, when your in the mood for it.
Another stop to wait out a light shower and sitting under the eves of small house on the side of the road. The Family comes out with tea and melon to refresh us with kids in rags running around gawking at us. Spirits lifted and refreshed its back on the road fighting our way back home.
350 km from Ramnigar to Rishikesh in just over 6 hours. A dusty self satisfied clap on my back as I sit with a well earned fresh lemon soda.
3 days to get there and 6 hours back, its the adventure that counts though.
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Corbett Dawn
Woken at 5am to head out in jeep again. This time we see herds of wild elephants, muggers (a type of croc) and gharials (also a type of croc). Lots more deer that are too relaxed for my liking and lots of birds.
The park at dawn is very special but alas no tigers, we see their prints, hear them, smell them and I'm sure I felt one watching us but no sightings.
They where definitely there as other groups saw them, one jeep was even attacked by one when it got too close to a tigress's cubs.
Back to hot dusty Ramnigar not quite empty handed but a bit disappointed.
Spend a uncomfortable afternoon and evening there which put me in a "I'm over India mood" and my will is to hit the road at day break to beat the heat.
The park at dawn is very special but alas no tigers, we see their prints, hear them, smell them and I'm sure I felt one watching us but no sightings.
They where definitely there as other groups saw them, one jeep was even attacked by one when it got too close to a tigress's cubs.
Back to hot dusty Ramnigar not quite empty handed but a bit disappointed.
Spend a uncomfortable afternoon and evening there which put me in a "I'm over India mood" and my will is to hit the road at day break to beat the heat.
Corbett at last
The main reception for the Jim Corbitt National park in Ramnigar opens at 8.30 am. Sue and I where there at 8 and there was already a que. Like everywhere here its paper work, paper work, paper work. They say "The British invented bureaucracy but the Indians perfected it". Everywhere you go you have to fill out forms in triplicate. Sue does a great job of sorting it all out at the counter (women are allowed to que barge) and we even pick up 2 Germans to help spread the cost. We only manage to get one night in the park as it is high season and the place is packed.
Grab a stoned Juan and stick him in the jeep and we're off to find some tigers.
Its 10.30am and the heat is sweltering but our spirits our high as we actually made it to the park against all odds.
The park is vast and the jeep bounces along into the heart where we're to stay for the night.
We stop every now and then to view deer and birds. The jungle here is dense.
When we get to Dikala where we are staying it's more paper work in triplicate then onto our log cabin with bunk beds 3 high.
The elephants are out doing a census of the wild elephants and they have a day off tomorrow so we will not get a chance to go along on an elephant which is a bit disappointing but we get to go by jeep safari instead.
After a good siesta we head off in the jeep in search of a big cat. The park is really beautiful with amazing views of mountains and jungle.We spot wild deer and dozens of species of birds and a few elephant. We see the tiger tracks but no tigers.
Its back to the camp where they show an old nature movie on a reel to reel projector, the whirring of the reels and the speckled picture sends me back in time.
Then to bed.
Grab a stoned Juan and stick him in the jeep and we're off to find some tigers.
Its 10.30am and the heat is sweltering but our spirits our high as we actually made it to the park against all odds.
The park is vast and the jeep bounces along into the heart where we're to stay for the night.
We stop every now and then to view deer and birds. The jungle here is dense.
When we get to Dikala where we are staying it's more paper work in triplicate then onto our log cabin with bunk beds 3 high.
The elephants are out doing a census of the wild elephants and they have a day off tomorrow so we will not get a chance to go along on an elephant which is a bit disappointing but we get to go by jeep safari instead.
After a good siesta we head off in the jeep in search of a big cat. The park is really beautiful with amazing views of mountains and jungle.We spot wild deer and dozens of species of birds and a few elephant. We see the tiger tracks but no tigers.
Its back to the camp where they show an old nature movie on a reel to reel projector, the whirring of the reels and the speckled picture sends me back in time.
Then to bed.
Road trip day 3
The next day he comes to the hotel and he brings me for breakfast then to get the key made. As we go to part ways I can not express my gratitude enough, I ask him what I can offer as thanks and he just grabs me in a big bear hug which I return whole heatedly and a tear whells in my eye and off he goes. Deven you are a fucking angel.
By this time it is 10am and is getting HOT!!! but we decide to get on the road to Ramnigar another 150km south and it is already in late 30s.
Being on the bike in this weather is like being in a furnace, we drive on through the heat of the day and it just keeps getting hotter and hotter. By early evening we arrive in Ramnigar destroyed, baked and exhausted.
Ramnigar is a dusty hot town with no real redeeming features at all. We book into a hotel with no A/C as there is only one hotel in the town with A/C and there is no chance of getting in there.
Fried, with dry throats that all the rain in Ireland could not rehydrate all we can do is lie staring at the fuzzy black and white TV with only one channel (luckily in english).
My phone rings and it is Juan our 3rd person that came by bus, we thought there was no way he would make it as the last time we saw him he was assuring us through very stoned eyes that he would "sort out the bus tomorrow." He is in the Hotel that turns out to be just across the road from the one we're in and I can see him from my window. Alls well that ends well I reckon.
By this time it is 10am and is getting HOT!!! but we decide to get on the road to Ramnigar another 150km south and it is already in late 30s.
Being on the bike in this weather is like being in a furnace, we drive on through the heat of the day and it just keeps getting hotter and hotter. By early evening we arrive in Ramnigar destroyed, baked and exhausted.
Ramnigar is a dusty hot town with no real redeeming features at all. We book into a hotel with no A/C as there is only one hotel in the town with A/C and there is no chance of getting in there.
Fried, with dry throats that all the rain in Ireland could not rehydrate all we can do is lie staring at the fuzzy black and white TV with only one channel (luckily in english).
My phone rings and it is Juan our 3rd person that came by bus, we thought there was no way he would make it as the last time we saw him he was assuring us through very stoned eyes that he would "sort out the bus tomorrow." He is in the Hotel that turns out to be just across the road from the one we're in and I can see him from my window. Alls well that ends well I reckon.
Road trip day 2
Wake up to a flat tyre and frantic ack'ing and hacking, Ack assures me there is a pump in the town so I don't worry. Am not surprised about tyre as the roads had to take their toll.
Sue and I do our morning yoga with Ack looking on intently, for the first time he is silent, during session I catch his eye and he meets mine with a sincere nod of approval. The silence is only broken by the birds in the trees and Ack's frequent hacking up of flem. He sits through the whole 2 hours watching intently.
After yoga its back to the serious business of getting back on the road so I head into town for pump. As is the way in India everything is more complicated then you would imagine.
The whole town knows who we are and our business. I head to the main shop, luckily puncture is the same in Hindi so that messages get through no problem, I ask about a pump and I get a head wobble and "yes sir, no problem. Would you like Chai?"
I sit back and have my tea and have the customary conversation and buy a few bits and pieces. After 30 mins I ask about pump again and I get a head wobble and "yes sir, no problem."
I cant rush these people as they have stuff to do, I'm sure besides stand round watching me drink chai and have the same conversation with everybody in turn.
Another 30 mins goes by and still no pump and I ask again "The pump is coming yes?", I get a head wobble and "yes sir, no problem." Am getting a bit restless now as it is getting past 9am and we need to get going.
After another 30 mins I decide to get to the bottom of the situation as the ambiguity of this help I'm getting is beginning to get on my nerves. I brush off another conversation and start pressing about pump and I'm informed there is no pump but I can take a jeep to next town that is about 20km with the wheel, 400rs or I can pay a guy to take wheel to next town for 100rs. Now it is 55rs to the euro so it is not allot of money but on principal I don't like gouging. Eventually a guy joins the onlookers that is a bit more proactive and assures me that I can get to next town and back for 15rs each way no prob in shared jeep, get bike down from hill and bring wheel. Okay, flurry of action and I'm back up the hill. Bringing the bike down is perilous as it is very heavy and the tyre is totally flat.
Back to town where everybody is out and has to come poke the tyre in turn and chat about it. In the mean time I'm miming away that I don't have the tools to blank faces, the heat is coming and sweat is already pouring.
I'm really getting tired of this charade (pun intended) and my frustration is beginning to show.
Eventually my proactive friend comes back and is on the case, with some grunting, turning, sweating, pulling and banging we eventually get the wheel off to a cheer from the whole village.
Into the jeep on its way to Kotdawar and a 40 minute drive to next town, puncture fixed in 20mins and am just about to hope into another jeep on its way back to Kandy when I check my pocket to find my keys are gone. They must have fallen out of my pocket in the jeep that is by now speeding in the opposite direction to where the bike is and no way to contact it, even if the keys are in the jeep or not pocketed or lost along the way.
There have been only 2 times in my life that I have really lost it, this was the 3rd. The locals must have thought me a mad man as I rushed around the town pulling at my hair in a last ditch attempt to find keys in case they fell out in tyre place or at a shop I stopped in. I ask about the jeep and they say it will be back tomorrow. In a mountain village in India with no keys!!!!!! It has been 10 years since I have been so pissed, angry and ashamed, punching and kicking the air and pulling at my hair. Needless to say the 40 minute trip back to Kandy was a long tormented trip with the scenery so nice on the way there just turning my spit to acid in my mouth.
Needless to say the whole town gets a great laugh out of my predicament (at least something good comes from it).
After an attempt to hot wire bike which only manages to blow the fuse with everybody in town taking their turn to offer the same suggestions. At this stage my rage has turned to resignation, I do manage I think to get message to driver of jeep but I get no confirmation on the keys just head wobbles and "yes sir, keys".
Then I have to go break the news to Sue and Ack.
After a few excited Ack's I just get a resigned "ack" with a rise of eye brows and shoulders. Sue is very understanding also as we contemplate the fact that we have to spend another night here till the jeep returns, keeping the hope alive that the jeep driver will turn up with the keys and a big knowing smile at any moment.
As the afternoon turns into evening we have really resigned to the fact that we will be here forever when I hear a distant roar of a familiar Enfield engine. My ears perk up but I think it is just my mind teasing me and we get back to our Sudoku championship. Again I hear an engine so I head out to investigate. At the gate is an Indian on his motorbike and he informs me he has gotten the my bike started! With a click of my heals I hop on the back of his bike and head down the hill.
It turns out he was just passing through with his junior engineer, the locals told him the story and he tried the key of his juniors Honda Hero and it fit! and it turned!! and it started!!! What are the chances of him passing with a key that matches my ignition?!!!! They only catch is that we have to follow him right now to the town we where planning to be at today anyway! So that we can get a key cut. The mind boggles but I don't hang around, straight back up to the bungalow where we pack in record time, found farewell to Ack and we're on the road again. With a cheer from village we're beeping and waving at the locals with the biggest grins on our faces.
The road is like a dream compared to the way up there and we speed along.
As we start our descent on the other side of the mountain the landscape changes to pine forest. Into the evening we drive
passing through the occasional forest fire that burns along the edge of the road. We just keep going though, following our saviours, sometimes loosing site of them in the thick smoke.
As night falls we get to Kotdawar, where our excited saviours hand me a cold beer (I have no idea where they got it), book us into a hotel, bring us to get the puncture fixed (as it has gone flat again) and brings us to dinner (As I have not eaten all day this almost brings tears to my eyes).
It turns out he is a contractor that is responsible for building the roads! Saved by the guy responsible for the roads that punctured my tyre that led me to lose my keys that he just happened to have the exact duplicate of.
It turns out he was just passing through with his junior engineer, the locals told him the story and he tried the key of his juniors Honda Hero and it fit! and it turned!! and it started!!! What are the chances of him passing with a key that matches my ignition?!!!! They only catch is that we have to follow him right now to the town we where planning to be at today anyway! So that we can get a key cut. The mind boggles but I don't hang around, straight back up to the bungalow where we pack in record time, found farewell to Ack and we're on the road again. With a cheer from village we're beeping and waving at the locals with the biggest grins on our faces.
The road is like a dream compared to the way up there and we speed along.
As we start our descent on the other side of the mountain the landscape changes to pine forest. Into the evening we drive
passing through the occasional forest fire that burns along the edge of the road. We just keep going though, following our saviours, sometimes loosing site of them in the thick smoke.
As night falls we get to Kotdawar, where our excited saviours hand me a cold beer (I have no idea where they got it), book us into a hotel, bring us to get the puncture fixed (as it has gone flat again) and brings us to dinner (As I have not eaten all day this almost brings tears to my eyes).
It turns out he is a contractor that is responsible for building the roads! Saved by the guy responsible for the roads that punctured my tyre that led me to lose my keys that he just happened to have the exact duplicate of.
Off to Corbett
To cut a long story short we made it there and back.
Took 3 days to get there and 6 hours to get back but that's India for you.
With the bike all ready to go and a travel companion to put on the back and a plan for the first big road trip under way. After Phool Chatti and getting everything ready (which took longer then planned as always) we hit the road.
Sue on the back and me at the handle bars, we had addressed the map and saw that there was a road pretty much directly to Jim Corbett National Park, a tiger reserve about 300km south of Rishikesh. "Easy" we thought, "no problems!".
We set off about 3pm with plans to stay in a village along the way then be there early the next afternoon.
All was going well, the bike was complaining a little on the hills but I put this down to the engine just getting into the flow.
Then about 25k along the mountain road the surface just seemed to run out and it was replaced by rocks and sand, I kept going regardless. It was hard going, never getting out of second gear. After about 10k of this and it not looking like it was getting any better I had to stop for a rest. There was some workers on the road but they did not understand my questions about the road and just smiled and did the Hindi head wobble, distressed at the idea of going on like this for the next 100k or having to turn back I kicked a few rocks and rubbed my feeling back into my numb arse considering what to do till a truck came by. Luckily there was a guy that had some pigeon English and we worked out that it was only another kilometer or so of this road till it got better.
With feeling just about back in our asses we hit the track again to find about 500 meters on TARMAC!!!! oh the joy. The joy was not to last though as it was only intermittent patch's of tarmac tantalising our buttocks.
The going was a bit better though and as we wound our way along the mountain road I did manage to catch glimpses of the scenery that was really incredible. The road snaked along the top of deep valleys, carved by farmers long ago into steps.
As the sun was setting we found a village the name I cant remember fully but was pronounced "Kandy". It was only a street with about 5 shops. As we rolled in a crowd formed around us. We enquired about a guest house, as the crowd grew there was discussions and curious stares till finally a man with some English joined the crowd. He called to another man whom we had not seen, we turned to greet a man coming up the hill behind us to see what we thought was a wild man or the town lunatic waving his arms wildly and shouting. He was a mute so the only sound coming from him was loud "Acks" and "Nuaags", his eyes where crazed.
I quickly repeated my query about the guest house and it turned out this man was the land lord and it did not seem he was very happy to see us. The other men in the group seemed to placate him after some frantic gesturing and loud "Ack'ing" and told us to head up this little track. With a quick thought as to whether we should trust our sleep to this frantic wild man we headed up the track with no idea where to go or what was waiting for us at the top.
I just kept heading up the track till I could go no further and waited. After a while we heard some frantic "ack'ing" and knew it was the right place. "ACK ACK ACK!!!!!!!!!" waving us to enter the compound impatianly.
The place was a large bungalow with little out houses around it.
"ack, ACK ACK!!!!!" telling to leave bike under one of the eves.
"ACK, NUAG!!!!! ACK ACK ACK!!" with wild gesturing he pulls out a bunch of keys and opens the door to a splendid sort of dining room.
"ACK ACK" a huge bedroom, "Ack!!!!!!" the toilet.
What an amazing place with all mod cons ecept electricity but the peace and quiet of this place on top of a mountain make that just as it should be.
"Ack ACK ACCCK!!!" he tells me as he guides us around the compound.
On closer inspection you see his madness replaced by frustration behind intelligent eyes and as he warms to us the frantic gesturing and wild eyes are replaced by coherent signing and even a flash of a toothless smile.
He advises us to have a bit of a wash and then hit the town for dinner and to remember to get some candles as he hoovers around watching us unpack going about our business. I reckon we are the first guest he has seen for a long time, Indian or westerner.
After settling in we head back down to the town for dinner.
On closer inspection there is no more to the town then we first thought, I do notice a "Wine Shop" and go to investigate a cellar filled with dusty bottles of spirits and warm beer one of which I purchase, my first beer in over a month.
The restaurant is prepped for our arrival, I reckon it was just an empty shop an hour ago where they have placed a table and chairs. No menu is offered, just whether we wanted veg or non veg. Veg it is and I stick my beer in their freezer. The dinner turns out to be a very good Dal and mixed veg with as many chapatis as we can eat. After stuffing ourselves and only managing 2 thirds of the beer we waddle back up the till in the dark only stopping to take in the view over the deep valley with lights dotted along it's dark contours.
Out of the dark comes a "Ack ack, nuag?", "yes dinner was great thanks and goodnight" I reply rubbing my full belly.
Satisfied he ack's and hacks into the night.
The Candles are bearly lit before they are extinguished for sleep.
Sunday, May 20, 2007
Back to it Spidie style
Back in Rishikesh with the noise, beggars, people and difficult decisions about what to have for dinner.
Bring the motorbike to get it's last bits done but as always it takes much longer then I thought it would. Juan, Sue and I are planning a trip to Jim Corbett National park so have to make sure bike is all ready to go. After 2 days of hanging out around mechanics and Alok's shop drinking buckets of Chai the work is done and she is finished. It is not time wasted as I get to know Alok and his family. I also get to be a privileged guest and the evening ceremony on the river bank, where I get to wave around the clensing fires and give offerings to Ganesh in the Ganga.
Spider Man 3 is starting in the local cinema and its an opportunity I don't intend to miss. Going to the cinema is one thing I do miss and from what I hear the Indian cinema experience is not one to be missed.
Juan, Sue and I squeeze onto the bike (Indian style) and off we go.
*A short note on driving in India:
I have been driving around on bike for a couple of days now and I have to say it is really an experience. There are no rules of the road here except one and that is "Right of way goes to the bigger vehicles". You can have no ego driving on these roads. Pedestrian ways are also the high ways for whatever vehicles can fit on them. The only way to get back and forth across the river that divides the area here is by 2 suspension bridges that span the valley (see pictures). Crossing back and forth on these by motorbike is a challenge as they are always full of people, scooters, rickshaws, cows and other motorbikes. The MOST important piece of equipment on the bike is by far the horn and then the brakes.
Drop by Alok's shop for a drink, he produces a bottle of whiskey (very rare here as is a holy city) and I have my first drink in over a month and one is enough.
Then head to cinema. The building is reminiscent of the Classic in Harolds Cross (for those of you that remember - never forget). Buying the treats was an exercise in confusion and patients. For some reason the guy just could not get his head around it, all we wanted was 3 water, 2 popcorn and a packet of crisps. I really have no idea what was so confusing for him but it was like a very complicated game of chess with him taking out and putting back bottles of water and packets of popcorn and handing money back and forth. I'm convinced I made a profit in the end.
The cinema was a sweat box, the seats where covered in that fake leather and it was like those summer drives to the beach in the car before A/C was invented.
The movie was of course in Hindi (I think it was better that way as we could make up our own dialogue and I'm sure it was much better then the movies). The cinema here is more like a cafe with people coming and going constantly, people talking on their mobiles or shouting at the movie. Was great!
Then a cooling trip back on empty roads and bridges.
Bring the motorbike to get it's last bits done but as always it takes much longer then I thought it would. Juan, Sue and I are planning a trip to Jim Corbett National park so have to make sure bike is all ready to go. After 2 days of hanging out around mechanics and Alok's shop drinking buckets of Chai the work is done and she is finished. It is not time wasted as I get to know Alok and his family. I also get to be a privileged guest and the evening ceremony on the river bank, where I get to wave around the clensing fires and give offerings to Ganesh in the Ganga.
Spider Man 3 is starting in the local cinema and its an opportunity I don't intend to miss. Going to the cinema is one thing I do miss and from what I hear the Indian cinema experience is not one to be missed.
Juan, Sue and I squeeze onto the bike (Indian style) and off we go.
*A short note on driving in India:
I have been driving around on bike for a couple of days now and I have to say it is really an experience. There are no rules of the road here except one and that is "Right of way goes to the bigger vehicles". You can have no ego driving on these roads. Pedestrian ways are also the high ways for whatever vehicles can fit on them. The only way to get back and forth across the river that divides the area here is by 2 suspension bridges that span the valley (see pictures). Crossing back and forth on these by motorbike is a challenge as they are always full of people, scooters, rickshaws, cows and other motorbikes. The MOST important piece of equipment on the bike is by far the horn and then the brakes.
Drop by Alok's shop for a drink, he produces a bottle of whiskey (very rare here as is a holy city) and I have my first drink in over a month and one is enough.
Then head to cinema. The building is reminiscent of the Classic in Harolds Cross (for those of you that remember - never forget). Buying the treats was an exercise in confusion and patients. For some reason the guy just could not get his head around it, all we wanted was 3 water, 2 popcorn and a packet of crisps. I really have no idea what was so confusing for him but it was like a very complicated game of chess with him taking out and putting back bottles of water and packets of popcorn and handing money back and forth. I'm convinced I made a profit in the end.
The cinema was a sweat box, the seats where covered in that fake leather and it was like those summer drives to the beach in the car before A/C was invented.
The movie was of course in Hindi (I think it was better that way as we could make up our own dialogue and I'm sure it was much better then the movies). The cinema here is more like a cafe with people coming and going constantly, people talking on their mobiles or shouting at the movie. Was great!
Then a cooling trip back on empty roads and bridges.
Saturday, May 19, 2007
Phool Chatti week
What an amazing, hard, rewarding week it has been. I'm now intimate with my toes and my forehead and knees are getting to know each other well and are become closer everyday, I have found a peace I have never experianced before. I swam in the Ganga pretty much every day. I found a stretch of river about 200 meters long between 2 rapids where there was a strong current and I would walk up to the first rapid and dive in and swim out into the current and just drift along till a place just before the secound rapid. A real privilaged feeling just being carried by the river. There are currents so strong in the water that it feels like a huge animal is brushing against you.
The Ganga is the Holiest river in India. It is considered a temple by the Indians. The story of the Ganga (http://www.uttaranchal.ws/river.htm in brief if your interested) is a lovely story and you can really feel the purity and sanctity of her water. She is my teacher when I'm here and her company I seek out when ever I can. During the days I can swim in her and in the evenings her song fills the air in harmony with the scented wind that cools my greatful brow.
OM Shanti, Shanti, Shanti.
OM Shanti, Shanti, Shanti.
OM Shanti, Shanti, Shanti.
The Ganga is the Holiest river in India. It is considered a temple by the Indians. The story of the Ganga (http://www.uttaranchal.ws/river.htm in brief if your interested) is a lovely story and you can really feel the purity and sanctity of her water. She is my teacher when I'm here and her company I seek out when ever I can. During the days I can swim in her and in the evenings her song fills the air in harmony with the scented wind that cools my greatful brow.
OM Shanti, Shanti, Shanti.
OM Shanti, Shanti, Shanti.
OM Shanti, Shanti, Shanti.
Phool Chatti days
First full day at Phool Chatti.
Day starts at 5.30am. I was the bell ringer for the day so was my responsibility to get everybody up.
6-6.30am Meditation
6.30-7-30 chanting and breathing exercise after a quick cleansing using a little jug style thing that you put up your nostril and pour water into your sinuses till it comes out the other side. Not entirely unpleasant when you get used to it but takes a bit of practise.
7-30-9am Hatha Yoga, a really strong class taught by the venerable Lolita Ji. "Move and Stretch your body", "Breath! no hold you breath". The laughing yoga was great even though she is no stand up comic. By end of class I'm well worked.
9am Breakfast at last. Porridge, bananas, mangoes and honey oh my!
10.30 2 hour meditation walk. Walked to a waterfall near by. The walk was lovely and the waterfall was a really treat at end of a hot hike. There was lovely little pools and caves to paddle in and the cooling cascade was delightful. The waterfall was not a raging torrent but it was was surrounded by moss covered rocks and limestone formations in this jungle. Birds and monkeys going about their business in the trees and butterflies the size of butterflies flew around us. A waterfall like most others but a fresh peaceful place that does make a sound in the jungle even when your not there, has been for millenia and will do so long after we're gone.
12.30 Lunch at last. More great food cooked up by Ram. We file into the dining hall and sit on the ground. The boys come along and serve us rice, Dal or whatever the daily dishes are out of their steal buckets. Coming around topping you up when your dish empties till you have to say "no more, no more!"
4-5.30 Astanga yoga, as the morning but different style and about 30c+ in the room. Lolita Ji working us skillfully just to our limits.
5.30-6 breathing exercises
6-8 discussion and evening prayers (not one for praying so sit this one out)
8 Dinner at last, like lunch but different delicious food.
8.30-9 Meditation to the sound of the river and the gentle wind.
Bed, sleep, darkness to do it all over again everyday for the next week.
Day starts at 5.30am. I was the bell ringer for the day so was my responsibility to get everybody up.
6-6.30am Meditation
6.30-7-30 chanting and breathing exercise after a quick cleansing using a little jug style thing that you put up your nostril and pour water into your sinuses till it comes out the other side. Not entirely unpleasant when you get used to it but takes a bit of practise.
7-30-9am Hatha Yoga, a really strong class taught by the venerable Lolita Ji. "Move and Stretch your body", "Breath! no hold you breath". The laughing yoga was great even though she is no stand up comic. By end of class I'm well worked.
9am Breakfast at last. Porridge, bananas, mangoes and honey oh my!
10.30 2 hour meditation walk. Walked to a waterfall near by. The walk was lovely and the waterfall was a really treat at end of a hot hike. There was lovely little pools and caves to paddle in and the cooling cascade was delightful. The waterfall was not a raging torrent but it was was surrounded by moss covered rocks and limestone formations in this jungle. Birds and monkeys going about their business in the trees and butterflies the size of butterflies flew around us. A waterfall like most others but a fresh peaceful place that does make a sound in the jungle even when your not there, has been for millenia and will do so long after we're gone.
12.30 Lunch at last. More great food cooked up by Ram. We file into the dining hall and sit on the ground. The boys come along and serve us rice, Dal or whatever the daily dishes are out of their steal buckets. Coming around topping you up when your dish empties till you have to say "no more, no more!"
4-5.30 Astanga yoga, as the morning but different style and about 30c+ in the room. Lolita Ji working us skillfully just to our limits.
5.30-6 breathing exercises
6-8 discussion and evening prayers (not one for praying so sit this one out)
8 Dinner at last, like lunch but different delicious food.
8.30-9 Meditation to the sound of the river and the gentle wind.
Bed, sleep, darkness to do it all over again everyday for the next week.
Phool Chatti
Am writing by moon light due to another power cut. They are a daily occurrence (sometimes hourly) so am used to them now.
Got bike and am very happy with her. There is still a few bits and pieces to be done to her but I'm happy.
Alok and Gaurav (the 2 local brothers I bought bike from) have been an absolute pleasure to deal with. They have made sure everything is sorted on it and have been a great help with everything else I needed and kept my belly full of chai and my mind full with conversation. It takes so long to get anything done here that you need friends to keep you from going around the bend. Have not had time to bond with the bike yet but I think it could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship.
Have moved into Phool Chatti ashram with Juan and Carlos ( two guys from Chili I met in cafe) and Sue (an girl from Oz that we met in street) for a week course. A beautiful spot about 6km from Rishikesh, it is on the bank of the Ganga beside a rapid that fill s the air with a soft river song.
The place is really peaceful with mango trees and rose gardens all around. The tree in court yard that has Jasmine growing through it fills the air with a sweet scent. The tree is a hive of activity with all sorts of birds (some only a couple of inches in size with incredible plumage). The Ashrams doves feed around its base with pidgions flirting with them.
Any excuse to take bike for a spin Juan and I head to see if I can find Hari Krishna John to say goodbye as he is leaving soon but I cant find him. Instead I find a snake charmer at the Swiss Cottage. I went over to have a chat with him and he let me handle his female Cobra. She was really beautiful. About 4 foot long, she coiled around my arm and slithered around me, tasting the air with her delicate tongue, she was so soft and gentle I wanted to take her with me.
More bike stuff then back to Phool Chatti just in time for another amazing lightning storm.
Got bike and am very happy with her. There is still a few bits and pieces to be done to her but I'm happy.
Alok and Gaurav (the 2 local brothers I bought bike from) have been an absolute pleasure to deal with. They have made sure everything is sorted on it and have been a great help with everything else I needed and kept my belly full of chai and my mind full with conversation. It takes so long to get anything done here that you need friends to keep you from going around the bend. Have not had time to bond with the bike yet but I think it could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship.
Have moved into Phool Chatti ashram with Juan and Carlos ( two guys from Chili I met in cafe) and Sue (an girl from Oz that we met in street) for a week course. A beautiful spot about 6km from Rishikesh, it is on the bank of the Ganga beside a rapid that fill s the air with a soft river song.
The place is really peaceful with mango trees and rose gardens all around. The tree in court yard that has Jasmine growing through it fills the air with a sweet scent. The tree is a hive of activity with all sorts of birds (some only a couple of inches in size with incredible plumage). The Ashrams doves feed around its base with pidgions flirting with them.
Any excuse to take bike for a spin Juan and I head to see if I can find Hari Krishna John to say goodbye as he is leaving soon but I cant find him. Instead I find a snake charmer at the Swiss Cottage. I went over to have a chat with him and he let me handle his female Cobra. She was really beautiful. About 4 foot long, she coiled around my arm and slithered around me, tasting the air with her delicate tongue, she was so soft and gentle I wanted to take her with me.
More bike stuff then back to Phool Chatti just in time for another amazing lightning storm.
Busy busy
Yesterday:
Yoga twice, morning and evening.
Hired scooter, booked into Phool Chatti Ashram, test drove 2 motorbikes.
Satisfying day all round.
Today:
Did my first proper full hour of mediation at Yoga Nikitan. It was in an underground room. The walls are lined with doors into "Meditation Caves".
The room was dark and cool as the yogi entered and sat at front of room. With only a few words guidance and a couple of breathing exercises it all began. Sitting in silence in his presence in that room my mind sored and I went on a journey like I have never experienced before. I could see myself walking through a door into bright light and off on a wonderful trip. The hour flew by.
When we came out of the room what had been a lovely bright morning had turned almost into night and the heavens where emptying with lightning and thunder splitting the sky.
Took another motorbike for a good test run but it clapped out on me. It turned out to work in my favour as I happened to meet Gaurav. A local shop merchant. His brother just happens to be selling an Enfield. Worn out from trying to get the one I was test driving to start I tell him to send his brother to meet me at a restaurant near by. After a refreshing lunch Alok turns up and I take bike for a run. Bit of haggling and he has a sale.
Yoga twice, morning and evening.
Hired scooter, booked into Phool Chatti Ashram, test drove 2 motorbikes.
Satisfying day all round.
Today:
Did my first proper full hour of mediation at Yoga Nikitan. It was in an underground room. The walls are lined with doors into "Meditation Caves".
The room was dark and cool as the yogi entered and sat at front of room. With only a few words guidance and a couple of breathing exercises it all began. Sitting in silence in his presence in that room my mind sored and I went on a journey like I have never experienced before. I could see myself walking through a door into bright light and off on a wonderful trip. The hour flew by.
When we came out of the room what had been a lovely bright morning had turned almost into night and the heavens where emptying with lightning and thunder splitting the sky.
Took another motorbike for a good test run but it clapped out on me. It turned out to work in my favour as I happened to meet Gaurav. A local shop merchant. His brother just happens to be selling an Enfield. Worn out from trying to get the one I was test driving to start I tell him to send his brother to meet me at a restaurant near by. After a refreshing lunch Alok turns up and I take bike for a run. Bit of haggling and he has a sale.
Beatles Ashram
Approx 200 meters from the ashram I'm staying at is the whats referred to the "Beatles's Ashram" where they stayed with the Maharishi Mahesh in 1968. It is derelict now. The boys stayed there for a couple of months where they wrote most of the "White Album" but the Maharishi Mahesh's constant demands for money and his attitude to the women of the group eventually drove them away.- "The Beatles song Sexy Sadie was originally called Maharishi, Maharishi, What Have You Done? John Lennon wrote the song after becoming disillusioned when the maharishi allegedly made a pass at the actor Mia Farrow at his Indian ashram, but Lennon later changed the title at George Harrison's instigation. The lyrics read: "Sexy Sadie what have you done/You made a fool of everyone.""- http://www.guardian.co.uk/medicine/story/0,11381,1549269,00.html
Bogey yogi is the phrase I believe.
The place is impressive though, when you get to the gate it stirs some iconic imagery that I would associate with that era.
The gates are chained but a man comes to them from inside somewhere and we bribe him with 20rs each to let us in.
The atmosphere is really still, fires of dry leaves at the outer walls send smoke drifting through the morning air giving everything a ethereal feel.
A rare thing in India is that it is quiet here, no traffic or shouting, just a few stoned holy men hanging around the outer grounds. You can still feel the tranquility of the 60s.
Stone domiciles based on a spiral design with little meditation rooms the shape off eggs on top of them line the lanes up to a little village of them. Anyone one of these John Lennon could have sat meditating, writing, gotten high or fooled around in, probably all of them.
It must have been a lovely place back then with beautiful gardens and shady alcoves to sit in.
As I sit meditating in what must have been the central gathering point, I try to send my mind back to what it must have been like there and what the Beatles's where achieving by being there. It must have been such an amazing time to be part of.
Bogey yogi is the phrase I believe.
The place is impressive though, when you get to the gate it stirs some iconic imagery that I would associate with that era.
The gates are chained but a man comes to them from inside somewhere and we bribe him with 20rs each to let us in.
The atmosphere is really still, fires of dry leaves at the outer walls send smoke drifting through the morning air giving everything a ethereal feel.
A rare thing in India is that it is quiet here, no traffic or shouting, just a few stoned holy men hanging around the outer grounds. You can still feel the tranquility of the 60s.
Stone domiciles based on a spiral design with little meditation rooms the shape off eggs on top of them line the lanes up to a little village of them. Anyone one of these John Lennon could have sat meditating, writing, gotten high or fooled around in, probably all of them.
It must have been a lovely place back then with beautiful gardens and shady alcoves to sit in.
As I sit meditating in what must have been the central gathering point, I try to send my mind back to what it must have been like there and what the Beatles's where achieving by being there. It must have been such an amazing time to be part of.
Sunday, May 6, 2007
Mussoorie
After a day off of just lounging around and haggling over a motorbike I keep talking myself in and out of buying Simone 2 and I have decided on another road trip to a town called Mussoorie.
Hitting the road at 6am its to Dahra Dhun and then another bus to Mussoorie.
One of the first mountain stations built by the British in 18....... It is 2000 meters above sea level. Dahra Dhun is only at 700m. The 1300m is traversed by a road that snakes into the mountain for what seems like eternity but the town and the views make the trip really worth while.
The air at this altitude is light and fresh that it makes breathing shear pleasure.
Way back when, this place was very popular with the "Raj set" and you still get that feel from it. With it's little amusement arcades and restaurants everywhere. There is even a cinema (long closed) that gives the place a really nice Bray (in the old days) feel to it.
Then back down the mountain with break neck turns in a bus with a filling loosening horn that he really over uses. Negotiate the seemingly ever changing and over complex public transport and home to Rishikesh.
Hitting the road at 6am its to Dahra Dhun and then another bus to Mussoorie.
One of the first mountain stations built by the British in 18....... It is 2000 meters above sea level. Dahra Dhun is only at 700m. The 1300m is traversed by a road that snakes into the mountain for what seems like eternity but the town and the views make the trip really worth while.
The air at this altitude is light and fresh that it makes breathing shear pleasure.
Way back when, this place was very popular with the "Raj set" and you still get that feel from it. With it's little amusement arcades and restaurants everywhere. There is even a cinema (long closed) that gives the place a really nice Bray (in the old days) feel to it.
Then back down the mountain with break neck turns in a bus with a filling loosening horn that he really over uses. Negotiate the seemingly ever changing and over complex public transport and home to Rishikesh.
Holy Hardiwar
Went into Hardiwar again. Simone was heading off too wherever and so with another Simone she had picked up we all headed into town for a look around.
Got to have a much better look around this time. A bustling noisy city (as are all in India I'm told) with a great market area that seems to just go on and on.
The shear volume of life here still amazes me.
After Simone 1 booked her bus and dropped off bag we took a cable car to a temple that looks out of the city.
The Temple is a cross between a fun park and a sort of spiritual super market. Queuing up through the styles and the the multitude of holy men offering blessings for donations, their eyes slightly glazed over. Choose your man, get your blessing and move on, cant hold up the que! Then file past all the shrines lit up like exhibits at the wax museum and the ride is over. But as even at the smallest of fun houses fun is had I do feel my spirit lifted.
Back down the cable car after being ring side to a bloody battle between an India family and 2 monkeys (Both sides having casualties) to the torrent of the street.
My belly is back to full strength and is rumbling so I venture into a street cafe and order what ever it is they're serving. A delicious bean stew thing with a mint tasting dip thingy soaked up with a sort of puffed fried bread all topped off by a tasty watery soup of some kind, very very tasty.
After found farewells to Simon 1, Simone 2 and I head off to explore more of the city. Down by the river bank there is a sort of temple area where there are lots of families hanging out, bathing and playing in the current. Everybody is in good spirits and the children play around us. Then wave down the local bus for another bone rattling hour journey back to Rishikesh in these fantastic sweat boxes.
Exhausted its to bed by 8pm
Got to have a much better look around this time. A bustling noisy city (as are all in India I'm told) with a great market area that seems to just go on and on.
The shear volume of life here still amazes me.
After Simone 1 booked her bus and dropped off bag we took a cable car to a temple that looks out of the city.
The Temple is a cross between a fun park and a sort of spiritual super market. Queuing up through the styles and the the multitude of holy men offering blessings for donations, their eyes slightly glazed over. Choose your man, get your blessing and move on, cant hold up the que! Then file past all the shrines lit up like exhibits at the wax museum and the ride is over. But as even at the smallest of fun houses fun is had I do feel my spirit lifted.
Back down the cable car after being ring side to a bloody battle between an India family and 2 monkeys (Both sides having casualties) to the torrent of the street.
My belly is back to full strength and is rumbling so I venture into a street cafe and order what ever it is they're serving. A delicious bean stew thing with a mint tasting dip thingy soaked up with a sort of puffed fried bread all topped off by a tasty watery soup of some kind, very very tasty.
After found farewells to Simon 1, Simone 2 and I head off to explore more of the city. Down by the river bank there is a sort of temple area where there are lots of families hanging out, bathing and playing in the current. Everybody is in good spirits and the children play around us. Then wave down the local bus for another bone rattling hour journey back to Rishikesh in these fantastic sweat boxes.
Exhausted its to bed by 8pm
Ah..... Rishikesh
It really is a lovely place here, it is pretty much hassle free.
My neighbor John is an ex Hari Krishna in his 50's from Canada. Every Morning at about 4 or 5 am he starts chanting, the vibrations come through the wall filling my room with an other worldly sound.
He is a great sole that really gets off on being "out there". Every second word is "bro" and he is a pleasure to hang out with as he works through his 2 liters of water he collects from the Ganga every day we talk life.
"You gotta hang onto your seed bro" he tells me as the conversation turns to girls as it always does when two men get chatting.
Every day I go for a swim in the Ganga. The water is so good, any heat stress or stomach pains just drift away with the current.
Everybody is very open and friendly so you are never alone here, in all the cafes everybody just talks to everybody.
The Luxman Jula area is for the tourists and there are allot of Israels here, they all get out of the army and then just head out hear, is them same story with pretty much all of them.
Yesterday I went for mt daily swim and I find John in the usual spot to find that only 10 minutes ago an Indian guy had just drowned. Usual story, there was a group of them and they had been drinking, 3 went in, John managed to rescue 2 of them but the 3rd was taken by the tumultuous current. The river gets very deep very quickly and the current is very strong also these guys can not swim at all. John is a bit shook up but I tell him "you did your best bro!". Is the 5th drowning this month. Another hopeless life taken by the Ganga to be reborn into something better hopefully. 40,000 births a day in India with a population of 1 billion people, I don't feel much for him.
Moved to Swarg Ashram, an area on the other side of the river form Luxman Jula. It is a real India place and the Indian tourist out number the westerners greatly. It has a very different vibe. It is based around a very big old ashram that only seems to have locals staying there. Every evening they have a big ceremony on the banks of the river. The Ba Ba singing mantras and performing the ritual, all around him his followers stand and sing, fires passing through the crowd for people to cleans themselves with. As I stand among them I'm really moved by the emotion and devotion. The tourist with their video cameras makes me feel guilty of being a westerner though.
Swarg Ashram is about 3Km from Luxman Jula and the walk is a very pleasant one along the river bank. Bodhi trees line the lane cooling the air. About half way there is a tea stand that makes some of the best chay I've tasted yet.
All around the main areas holy men line the sides, all their worldly belongings, a tin pale, a stick and the cloths on their backs mildly beg.
Had a shave and a hair cut today in one of the many street barbers. After the shave and cut all of a sudden it was if I was in a wrestling match. The old dude with strength beyond his body size has me in all kind of half and full nelsons, slapping me, working my shoulders and head, it was fantastic then onto a cafe for more chay and conversation.
My neighbor John is an ex Hari Krishna in his 50's from Canada. Every Morning at about 4 or 5 am he starts chanting, the vibrations come through the wall filling my room with an other worldly sound.
He is a great sole that really gets off on being "out there". Every second word is "bro" and he is a pleasure to hang out with as he works through his 2 liters of water he collects from the Ganga every day we talk life.
"You gotta hang onto your seed bro" he tells me as the conversation turns to girls as it always does when two men get chatting.
Every day I go for a swim in the Ganga. The water is so good, any heat stress or stomach pains just drift away with the current.
Everybody is very open and friendly so you are never alone here, in all the cafes everybody just talks to everybody.
The Luxman Jula area is for the tourists and there are allot of Israels here, they all get out of the army and then just head out hear, is them same story with pretty much all of them.
Yesterday I went for mt daily swim and I find John in the usual spot to find that only 10 minutes ago an Indian guy had just drowned. Usual story, there was a group of them and they had been drinking, 3 went in, John managed to rescue 2 of them but the 3rd was taken by the tumultuous current. The river gets very deep very quickly and the current is very strong also these guys can not swim at all. John is a bit shook up but I tell him "you did your best bro!". Is the 5th drowning this month. Another hopeless life taken by the Ganga to be reborn into something better hopefully. 40,000 births a day in India with a population of 1 billion people, I don't feel much for him.
Moved to Swarg Ashram, an area on the other side of the river form Luxman Jula. It is a real India place and the Indian tourist out number the westerners greatly. It has a very different vibe. It is based around a very big old ashram that only seems to have locals staying there. Every evening they have a big ceremony on the banks of the river. The Ba Ba singing mantras and performing the ritual, all around him his followers stand and sing, fires passing through the crowd for people to cleans themselves with. As I stand among them I'm really moved by the emotion and devotion. The tourist with their video cameras makes me feel guilty of being a westerner though.
Swarg Ashram is about 3Km from Luxman Jula and the walk is a very pleasant one along the river bank. Bodhi trees line the lane cooling the air. About half way there is a tea stand that makes some of the best chay I've tasted yet.
All around the main areas holy men line the sides, all their worldly belongings, a tin pale, a stick and the cloths on their backs mildly beg.
Had a shave and a hair cut today in one of the many street barbers. After the shave and cut all of a sudden it was if I was in a wrestling match. The old dude with strength beyond his body size has me in all kind of half and full nelsons, slapping me, working my shoulders and head, it was fantastic then onto a cafe for more chay and conversation.
Tuesday, May 1, 2007
Free at last!
Am outta that Ashram. Still feeling pretty sick but I think a change of air is needed and I'm off to Rishikesh. Travel here is real easy as long as you can handle the local bus. It is a great way to Travel and dirt cheap also. The rip is a bumpy one but I just so happy to be on he road again (even if my poor swollen arse feels like its going to pop after each bump in the road)
Rishikesh is a beautiful town in a valley on he Ganga, pull into the Swiss Cottage which is a lovely place at the with views of the whole valley and a cafe that serves western food, thank god!!!
I manage a veg sou and already I fell so much better.
Sleep and rest in this fresh new air is all I want.
Rishikesh is a beautiful town in a valley on he Ganga, pull into the Swiss Cottage which is a lovely place at the with views of the whole valley and a cafe that serves western food, thank god!!!
I manage a veg sou and already I fell so much better.
Sleep and rest in this fresh new air is all I want.
Children's Ashram
Visited an ashram for children of leprosy patients from around India.
A peaceful place set back in a jungle of a nature reserve near where we're staying. I'm assured there are lions, tigers and elephants roaming around but I did not see any.
The place is so peaceful that you can not help but become quiet and conversation is stilted and low.
Normally there are 200+ children here but not at the moment. They are back with heir family on he streets of which ever city they come from. There are about 40 full time children here, mostly orphans or ones that work here. I really is an oasis of tranquility with neatly ended flowers growing everywhere. The whole place is built on a narrow stretch of farm land and all around farmers work their little patches.
On the way back we stop by the treatment center for some local leprosy patients and we pass through the "leper slum". It all seems peaceful enough and they have a little village of sorts.
It really is another world from a long time ago, I feel like I'm in a Josh Conrad book as I wander about the compound.
Then off bank to the safety and cleanliness of the ashram.
A peaceful place set back in a jungle of a nature reserve near where we're staying. I'm assured there are lions, tigers and elephants roaming around but I did not see any.
The place is so peaceful that you can not help but become quiet and conversation is stilted and low.
Normally there are 200+ children here but not at the moment. They are back with heir family on he streets of which ever city they come from. There are about 40 full time children here, mostly orphans or ones that work here. I really is an oasis of tranquility with neatly ended flowers growing everywhere. The whole place is built on a narrow stretch of farm land and all around farmers work their little patches.
On the way back we stop by the treatment center for some local leprosy patients and we pass through the "leper slum". It all seems peaceful enough and they have a little village of sorts.
It really is another world from a long time ago, I feel like I'm in a Josh Conrad book as I wander about the compound.
Then off bank to the safety and cleanliness of the ashram.
From my 3rd eye to my Brown eye
All was going so well, I was getting into the flow and really relaxing into the ashram. Meditating and was purifying my myself. But then BAM!!!!! Delhi Belly!
Oh god the pain!!!!!! Have never been this cleaned out before!!!!!
Send the next 3 days never far from the toilet and eating nothing but rice and lassie.
Oh god the pain!!!!!! Have never been this cleaned out before!!!!!
Send the next 3 days never far from the toilet and eating nothing but rice and lassie.
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